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Food & Drink

Where Cluny chef Taylor McMeekin eats in Dufferin Grove

His favourite spots for croissants, empanadas and sushi

By Tiffany Leigh| Photography by Tiffany Leigh
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Chef Taylor McMeeking sits outside of Oroshi Fish Co. with an order of nigiri

Taylor McMeekin, the executive chef at Cluny Bistro and Boulangerie, is marking a new chapter for the Distillery District French kitchen with a brand-new bar menu. “It’s nosh-y stuff like charcuterie boards and crudités with dips along with classics including a French onion melt,” says McMeekin—ideal for those who want to graze while sipping a cocktail or three. “It’s short, simple and approachable—a fun detour from our main dining room, where our number-one seller remains the steak frites.”

Chef Taylor McMeekin stands near a Dufferin Grove alleyway

Related: Where Takja BBQ chefs Jeff Kang and Edward Bang eat barbecue in Toronto

While it’s go, go, go at work, McMeekin recently moved to the Dufferin Grove area and has been trying to find time on days off to explore his new neighbourhood. “This area is just such a hive of all things wonderful, and I was so happy to move here,” he says. “It’s exciting to wander around to discover where my next great meal will be.” Here, he takes us on a tour of his favourite spots.

Inside Delicious Empanadas

Related: Where Maven chef Shauna Godfrey eats in Dovercourt Village


Barbershop Pâtisserie

859 College St., barbershoppatisserie.square.site

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“I worked with owner and pastry chef Jill Barber back in the day, when we were both at Ultra Supper Club. Then, when I was at the Drake, I’d buy her pastries. To see her growth makes me a proud friend. As we continue to expand Cluny’s pastry offerings, I’d like to start supporting her.”

Where Cluny chef Taylor McMeekin eats in Dufferin Grove

Go-to dish #1: Ham-and-cheese croissant “This has Danish vibes, especially with its shape. The lamination is a thing of beauty, and you can even see the butter. There’s so much love and time put into this. It’s not overbaked, but it’s nice and crusty around the edges. I love the flecks of mustard, salty ham and bites of cheese. It’s so pleasantly savoury.”

Chef Taylor McMeekin holds a crossaint
Inside a ham and cheese croissant

Go-to dish #2: Lemon bichon “I love that buttery snap and how sticky it is with that unreal brûléed sugar crust. It’s texturally perfect. It’s messy to eat but so worth it. It’s equal parts decadent and bright with the lemon filling.”

A closeup of a lemon bichon from Barbershop Patisserie
Inside a lemon bichon from Barbershop Patisserie

Go-to drink: Latte “They source their beans from Propeller, and the espresso has this nutty toffee aroma and creamy taste. You’ve got to love this brand—we use their beans at our restaurant too. They’ve been around forever, and for good reason.”


Delicious Empandas

921 College St., @deliempanadascanada

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“This is a tiny spot with just one seat inside and two tables outside, so it’s great for grab-and-go. I discovered it through my sous-chef, who recommended it because he goes to their other location, on Eglinton.”

The exterior of Delicious Empanadas

Go-to dish #1: Pork belly empanada “These are Colombian-style empanadas, the hallmark of which is the use of cornmeal instead of wheat flour. Here, they make them with lard as the binding agent, though they also have vegan and vegetarian options. This pork belly reminds me of adobo-style pork. I’m getting a lot of annatto, paprika and chili. It’s flavourful but not super spicy.

“The empanadas all come with side dipping sauces: garlic, hot and pico de gallo, which is my favourite for the acidity it brings to cleanse your palate. But my advice is to always try one on its own, then dabble with the accompaniments.”

A basket with two empanadas and three containers of sauce
A pork belly empanada

Go-to dish #2: Beef empanada “I love that ASMR crunch. The meat is so tender, and the potatoes are soft and perfectly cooked. It has deep savoury and beefy umami notes. It’s bloody delicious.”

Inside a beef empanada

Go-to dish #3: Cheese, spinach and mushroom empanada “That mozzarella cheese pull is everything. The sautéed mushrooms and spinach offer some earthiness and balance for the perfect bite. The only thing missing is a pilsner, which I sometimes enjoy at either Emmet Ray or Ladybug Tavern before grabbing a few empanadas.”

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A cheese and spinach empanada
A person pulls apart a cheese and spinach empanada

Oroshi Fish Co.

962 College St., oroshifishco.com

“Their dry-aging program is second to none. Jeff Kang is so talented and a great friend. When people think of dry-aging fish, they think it’s going to end up tasting funkier when in fact it tastes cleaner. The fish—not fishiness—really comes through.

Chef Taylor McMeekin sits on a bench outside of Oroshi Fish Co.

“All the fish they use is either wild or farmed. Jeff prefers wild, but when that’s not available, he’ll get farmed fish. Just now, they’re breaking down a whole tuna that was farmed in Spain. I love the transparency, how they share all of this information with their customers and the restaurants they supply to.

“I also love how this place, which is hidden down an alleyway, gives a sense of discovery. Right now, it’s grab-and-go only, but on a nice day, they have benches outside where you can sit and enjoy your order.”

Chefs Taylor McMeekin and Jeff Kang
A whole tuna being butchered

Go-to dish #1: Futomaki “Inside, you can see fresh prawn, egg, salmon, avocado, cucumber and daikon. It’s sweet, fatty and fresh, with a ton of umami. Even the rice is treated with respect and attentiveness. You can see the individual grains, which means it was cooked perfectly. The roll isn’t too tight, so it’s easy to eat. It comes with soy sauce, wasabi and ginger, but I prefer this on its own to honour the flavours and the preparation.”

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An order of futomaki from Oroshi Fish Co.

Go-to dish #2: Kanpachi nigiri (yellowtail, uni, chutoro) “Yellowtail is a white fish, and the belly has a tiny bloodline. Chefs are dabbling in this more and pushing the boundaries of including it—just enough adds the right level of complexity, but too much can taste coppery. This is perfect: fleshy, fatty and with a slightly bitter edge. Bad uni can also be overly metallic, but not here. It’s so clean and all at once buttery, fatty, sweet and unctuous. Chutoro is not as fatty as otoro, so it’s a great middle ground between lean and rich. As a result, this has a welcome sweetness with a buttery finish. It’s so, so ultra fresh too—everything here is.”

A closeup of some uni in an order of nigiri
A closeup of some tuna in an order of nigiri

Tiffany Leigh is an award-winning freelance journalist with degrees in business communications and education. She has a culinary background, is a recipient of the Clay Triplette James Beard Foundation scholarship award and has worked in restaurants such as Langdon Hall. In addition to Toronto Life, her pieces have been read in publications such as Forbes, Vogue, Eater, Dwell, Elle, Business Insider, Playboy, Food & Wine and Bon Appétit.

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Where Cluny chef Taylor McMeekin eats in Dufferin Grove

Where Cluny chef Taylor McMeekin eats in Dufferin Grove

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