What’s on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
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Name: Mimi Chinese
Contact: 265 Davenport Rd., mimichinese.com, @mimichinese
Neighbourhood: Yorkville
Owner: David Schwartz (Sunnys Chinese)
Chefs: Executive chef David Schwartz and executive sous chef Braden Chong (Sunnys Chinese)
Seating: 75
Covid-19 safety measures: Frequent sanitization, physically distanced tables, mask policy, contact tracing
Accessibility: Fully accessible
The food
Sunny’s—a pop-up specializing in regional Chinese cuisine—was actually the pandemic-born testing ground for the team’s original idea: Mimi Chinese, a sit-down restaurant that opens to the public on October 21. The main difference between the two, besides the obvious dine-in factor, is style. Mimi Chinese is a bit more grown up, a touch more refined and even theatrical—you can order a four-foot belt noodle and watch a bow-tie-wearing server use scissors to cut it tableside.
The menu, which showcases dishes from various regions but leans towards Cantonese-style fare from Guangdong province, specifies each item’s region of origin. The team is serious about staying true to traditional recipes—though you might find a twist here and there, this food is about celebration, not innovation. The idea is to inspire conversation about China’s diverse culinary landscape over dishes designed to be shared.
The drinks
There’s an impressive selection of sake, signature cocktails that feature Chinese ingredients and a wine list—with an emphasis on white wine—designed to pair with the food. The Tea Ceremony, a communal cocktail for two to four, is a highlight: the vibrant, refreshing blend of vodka, green tea, citrus and wildflower honey is served in a big iron pot and poured tableside.
The space
Black walls, red velvet booths and a beautiful lotus flower mural give the space a dramatic, opulent feel. There’s lots of booth seating, several spots to hang out at the bar, and a private dining room for 10. Behind the hostess stand—procured from a closing sale for North York’s iconic, now-closed Sea-Hi Famous Chinese Restaurant—sits an ornate antique armoire. Nearer the back, a glass case displays fermentation crocks and a cookbook collection. An ’80s soundtrack helps keep things fun—as does the bar at the front, which will stay open until the wee hours, long after the dining room has closed.
Liza Agrba has worked as a freelance journalist in Toronto for over a decade and has earned multiple awards. She covers food, business and culture and writes memoir-style pieces. Her work frequently appears in the Globe and Mail, Maclean’s, Toronto Life and many other publications
