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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese

By Liza Agrba| Photography by Daniel Neuhaus
What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Photo by Daniel Neuhaus

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Name: Mimi Chinese Contact: 265 Davenport Rd., mimichinese.com, @mimichinese
Neighbourhood: Yorkville Owner: David Schwartz (Sunnys Chinese) Chefs: Executive chef David Schwartz and executive sous chef Braden Chong (Sunnys Chinese) Seating: 75 Covid-19 safety measures: Frequent sanitization, physically distanced tables, mask policy, contact tracing Accessibility: Fully accessible

The food

Sunny’s—a pop-up specializing in regional Chinese cuisine—was actually the pandemic-born testing ground for the team’s original idea: Mimi Chinese, a sit-down restaurant that opens to the public on October 21. The main difference between the two, besides the obvious dine-in factor, is style. Mimi Chinese is a bit more grown up, a touch more refined and even theatrical—you can order a four-foot belt noodle and watch a bow-tie-wearing server use scissors to cut it tableside.

The menu, which showcases dishes from various regions but leans towards Cantonese-style fare from Guangdong province, specifies each item’s region of origin. The team is serious about staying true to traditional recipes—though you might find a twist here and there, this food is about celebration, not innovation. The idea is to inspire conversation about China’s diverse culinary landscape over dishes designed to be shared.

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
The kitchen’s dedicated wok station features two enormous woks operated by knee-level knobs—because with the speed and intensity of wok cooking, there’s no time to adjust the heat with your hands. Here we have a nascent stage of supreme fried rice.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Salted duck egg is grated over a luxurious bowl of supreme fried rice with dried scallop—shredded and fried for a crispy-chewy texture—lap cheong (cured Chinese sausage), egg and flowering chives. For an extra 10 bucks, you can add 20 grams of jewel-like salmon roe. $28.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Here’s that supreme fried rice again—with the addition of salmon roe. $38.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Shrimp toast, getting a thorough sesame seed coating.

 

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What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Shrimp toast—popular in Guangdong province, Hong Kong and North American Chinese restaurants—is typically served with either mustard, mayonnaise or vinegar. Mimi Chinese combines the three, in a fashion: hot mustard–mayo dipping sauce accompanies deep-fried white bread stuffed with shrimp, brushed with Chinese red vinegar, and coated with sesame seeds. $18.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Preparing char siu pork is a three-day affair here: the meat is brined, marinated and roasted twice, and finished with local Ontario wildflower honey.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
That same char siu, being plated

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
And the finished dish. It’s served with sweet caramelized soybeans which complement the rich, fatty pork. $36.

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What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
This showstopper of a dish consists of a single four-foot-long belt noodle coated in the restaurant’s aromatic Sichuan chili oil. It’s topped with mixed mushrooms and fresh cucumber and cut tableside by a server. $24.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Here we go...

 

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What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Ta-da!

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
For dessert, there’s shaved ice with creamy osmanthus milk pudding, mandarin granita and jasmine. $12.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
Sharing is caring Photo by Daniel Neuhaus
The drinks

There’s an impressive selection of sake, signature cocktails that feature Chinese ingredients and a wine list—with an emphasis on white wine—designed to pair with the food. The Tea Ceremony, a communal cocktail for two to four, is a highlight: the vibrant, refreshing blend of vodka, green tea, citrus and wildflower honey is served in a big iron pot and poured tableside.

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
The Jungle Panda, one of the restaurant’s signature cocktails, is an ode to China’s national animal. It’s a citrusy, lychee-infused tropical cocktail made with rum, Campari, elderflower, and baijiu—an aromatic Chinese spirit that, fun fact, is the world’s most consumed liquor. $19.

 

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
The boozy rye-based Mimi Manhattan includes Cantonese rice wine alongside punt e mes, or Italian vermouth. It’s topped with a skewer of dried tofu and a Luxardo cherry. $16.

 

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What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
A take on the corpse reviver, the floral and citrusy Jasmine Reviver features gin, lemon, vermouth and jasmine tea. $17.
The space

Black walls, red velvet booths and a beautiful lotus flower mural give the space a dramatic, opulent feel. There’s lots of booth seating, several spots to hang out at the bar, and a private dining room for 10. Behind the hostess stand—procured from a closing sale for North York’s iconic, now-closed Sea-Hi Famous Chinese Restaurant—sits an ornate antique armoire. Nearer the back, a glass case displays fermentation crocks and a cookbook collection. An ’80s soundtrack helps keep things fun—as does the bar at the front, which will stay open until the wee hours, long after the dining room has closed.

What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
What's on the menu at Mimi Chinese, a gorgeous new Yorkville restaurant from the team behind Sunnys Chinese
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