Name: Mimi Chinese
Contact: 265 Davenport Rd., mimichinese.com, @mimichinese
Neighbourhood: Yorkville
Owner: David Schwartz (Sunnys Chinese)
Chefs: Executive chef David Schwartz and executive sous chef Braden Chong (Sunnys Chinese)
Seating: 75
Covid-19 safety measures: Frequent sanitization, physically distanced tables, mask policy, contact tracing
Accessibility: Fully accessible
Sunny’s—a pop-up specializing in regional Chinese cuisine—was actually the pandemic-born testing ground for the team’s original idea: Mimi Chinese, a sit-down restaurant that opens to the public on October 21. The main difference between the two, besides the obvious dine-in factor, is style. Mimi Chinese is a bit more grown up, a touch more refined and even theatrical—you can order a four-foot belt noodle and watch a bow-tie-wearing server use scissors to cut it tableside.
The menu, which showcases dishes from various regions but leans towards Cantonese-style fare from Guangdong province, specifies each item’s region of origin. The team is serious about staying true to traditional recipes—though you might find a twist here and there, this food is about celebration, not innovation. The idea is to inspire conversation about China’s diverse culinary landscape over dishes designed to be shared.
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There’s an impressive selection of sake, signature cocktails that feature Chinese ingredients and a wine list—with an emphasis on white wine—designed to pair with the food. The Tea Ceremony, a communal cocktail for two to four, is a highlight: the vibrant, refreshing blend of vodka, green tea, citrus and wildflower honey is served in a big iron pot and poured tableside.
Black walls, red velvet booths and a beautiful lotus flower mural give the space a dramatic, opulent feel. There’s lots of booth seating, several spots to hang out at the bar, and a private dining room for 10. Behind the hostess stand—procured from a closing sale for North York’s iconic, now-closed Sea-Hi Famous Chinese Restaurant—sits an ornate antique armoire. Nearer the back, a glass case displays fermentation crocks and a cookbook collection. An ’80s soundtrack helps keep things fun—as does the bar at the front, which will stay open until the wee hours, long after the dining room has closed.