What’s on the menu at Lardo, an Italian alimentari turned sit-down restaurant

Name: Lardo Contact: 970 College St., 416-533-8663, lardo.ca, @lardo.toronto
Neighbourhood: Dufferin Grove
Owner: Gianpaolo “GP” Testa Chef: Liam Boulden Accessibility: A step at the door, bathrooms on the main floor

After a year running Dufferin Grove’s fancy alimentari (think Italian bodega with sandwiches, salumi and sangiovese), first-time restaurateur Gianpaolo Testa is upping the ante, turning his cozy College Street shop into a full-fledged dine-in destination for Italian dishes.

The Food

The newly launched dinner menu doesn’t tie itself to any single Italian region but instead draws inspiration from across the country. “It’s a concise, seasonal menu inspired by the bounty of the south and the precision of the north,” says Testa. The dishes lean toward familiar Italian fare, but they’re elevated with a level of polish and precision that makes them feel fresh. For example, grilled octopus is paired with braised fennel and lightly pickled fennel ribbons—a sharp little detail that pulls more than its weight.

The Drinks

Before opening Lardo, Testa worked for a small boutique wine agency. He’s always favoured classic French and Italian styles over trendy natural wines, and that preference is reflected in Lardo’s wine list. The selection leans heavily on Tuscany, Umbria and Piedmont, with some French burgundy and Californian pinot noir rounding it out. Bottles start at $70, but there’s also a section for deep-pocketed oenophiles that includes a 2016 Château Latour Bordeaux priced at $2,200.

“I see us as more of a wine bar, but Giuseppe Galati, our assistant general manager, makes phenomenal cocktails,” Testa says. Alongside classics like the negroni, paper plane and martini, the restaurant offers a concise lineup of signature drinks, all built around Italian spirits.

The Space

The sun-drenched mid-century-inspired front room still charms with its wine-stained marble counters, made-in-Italy tchotchkes and giant central butcher’s block. It has the relaxed energy of a living room, especially when guests leave their seats to mingle around the block, drinks in hand. The 26-seat back room, however, traded its cheerful lunchroom vibe for a moodier, more intimate atmosphere thanks to the keen vision of local designer Company Company.