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Food & Drink

“Our culinary and service programs have matured”: What’s on the menu at the new-and-improved Alo

Including a (fist) bump of caviar to kick things off

By Jessica Rodrigues| Photography by Daniel Neuhaus
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Alo's refreshed dining room
Photo by Jonathan Adediji

When Alo first opened in 2015, it set a new standard for fine-dining in Toronto with its tasting menus and service style. Toronto was in its rustic farm-to-table era, and chef Patrick Kriss, alongside business partner Zane Pearl, wanted to take a decidedly different approach.

Related: Toronto chefs and restaurateurs explain why all your favourite kitchens are pivoting

After a decade spent climbing to the top of culinary lists and earning a Michelin star, Alo closed—but only temporarily. It was time for a reset. “Our culinary and service programs have matured,” says Kriss. “The environment has to mirror that growth. We’ve been talking about this for a while and trying to find the right time, but if you’re holding out for the right time, chances are you’ve already waited too long.”

Related: “The gap between perceived value and the true cost of doing business is becoming unmanageable”—Chef David Schwartz on why your favourite restaurants close

The Food

During the restaurant’s closure, Kriss and his chefs tried out new ideas at Gallery, Alo’s experimental test kitchen inside Salon, the restaurant group’s private dining space in Yorkville. The pop-up served as a culinary sketchbook where the team explored new techniques, plating styles and service rhythms before bringing them back to Alo’s dining room.

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Now, diners can choose between two tasting formats: a six-course menu that offers a concise expression of Alo’s cooking ($185 per person) and a 10-course one that moves through a broader progression of seasonal dishes ($245 per person).

A bump of caviar in a spoon on a sculpture of a fist
A (fist) bump of Petrossian caviar

 

Sashimi
Sakura-cured shima-aji with rhubarb, chrysanthemum, sake and ginger

 

Foie gras mille feuille
Foie gras mille feuille with puff pastry, poached plum and plum purée alongside Lomo Ibérico, black truffle gastrique and hazelnut oil

 

A dish of Spanish Dover sole at Alo
Spanish Dover sole with scallop mousse, bone marrow, pil pil sauce, squid, mussel and razor clam alongside chive, caviar, garlic oil, Espelette pepper and fennel pollen

 

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A St. Honore Cake at Alo
St. Honoré cake with puff pastry, banana crème anglaise, banana pastry cream, miso-filled choux and caramelized white chocolate ganache
The Drinks

In Alo’s adjoining cocktail bar, the experience is a bit more relaxed—despite the white tablecloths. The cozy room hums with energy, offering a front-row seat to bartenders shaking and stirring classic cocktails reworked with subtle tweaks and updated spirits. Guests can settle in at the bar and enjoy something from the à la carte menu alongside their cocktails or opt for the six-course tasting menu at one of the surrounding tables.

The Dahlia, a martini-like cocktail at Alo Bar
With the launch of Alo’s new menu, the team wanted to highlight aperitivo-style cocktails, offering guests a lighter, lower-ABV option to begin their evening. The light and floral Dahlia is a blend of Cocchi Vermouth di Torino Extra Dry, Dolin Vermouth de Chambéry Rouge AOC, Cocchi Americano, Yellow Chartreuse and orange bitters. It’s based on the Aunt Eleanor, a martini riff created by Zac Pease at My Friend Duke in 2018, but swaps the gin for dry vermouth

 

Nine in the Afternoon, a cocktail at Alo Bar
The bright and tart Nine in the Afternoon is a riff on the Corpse Reviver No. 2. It’s made with Tanqueray No. 10 gin, Lillet, Ricard (an anise-flavoured pastis and aperitif), a touch of red shiso and lime
The Space

Toronto’s Commute Design Studio introduced curved walls, softer architectural lines and a more fluid sense of movement through the space. The dining room is moodier, with wall-to-wall textured burgundy carpet that anchors matching leather and suede seating. And the white tablecloths are gone (they’re in the bar now).

Alo's new dining room
Alo Bar
Photo by Jonathan Adediji
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