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Food & Drink

After closing six years ago, Harlem Restaurant has returned to Queen West

Welcome back, chicken and waffles

By Liza Agrba| Photography by Ryan Nangreaves
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A spread of dishes and drinks at Harlem Restaurant in Toronto

Name: Harlem Contact: 745 Queen St. W., harlemrestaurant.com, @harlemrestaurant
Neighbourhood: Queen West
Owners: Carl Cassell Chef: Sasiban Kulsegaram Accessibility: Not fully accessible

In 2006, the original Harlem opened at Church and Richmond—part restaurant, part venue and an all around buzzing creative space for Toronto’s Black community. Above the dining room, the second floor hosted live musical acts and spoken word performances. Artists from across the city came to perform and share their work.

While the flagship Harlem was thriving, Cassell and his wife opened a second location—Harlem Underground—on Queen West in 2010. As the city’s live music scene waned, Harlem Underground leaned in to DJs and jazz-night Mondays. In 2017, the original Harlem closed, and all that energy shifted west.

In 2019, Cassell and his wife, Anna, had just finished building Toronto’s first shipping container home above their Queen West restaurant when they closed it to focus on a new project: a yoga retreat near Cookstown. It was a quiet, intentional exit from the restaurant world. Until it wasn’t.

The Harlem Restaurant team
From left: bar manager Ty Hale, owner Carl Cassell and chef Sasiban Kulsegaram

One night, Cassell found himself at a Halloween party surrounded by strangers who lit up at the mention of Harlem. In what felt more like a message from the universe than a mere coincidence, three couples at the party had actually met at Cassell’s former spot. Around the same time, the tenant in their Queen West space moved out. Cassell briefly considered leasing it out to someone new, but every pitch—from hookah lounges to generic fusion restaurants—felt wrong. He knew how it would turn out: another forgettable place with no roots in the neighbourhood and no memory of what Harlem had meant. So he decided to take over the space once again and reopen.

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The menu is updated, but Harlem’s ethos of community and connection over polish and prestige remains the same. The smell of jerk chicken permeates the air, the drinks sparkle with edible glitter and the music still moves the walls. In short, Harlem is back—older and wiser, maybe, but still ready to party.

A mural of Prince on the patio at Harlem Restaurant in Toronto
The Food

The menu is a blend of Caribbean and Southern influences and includes reworked dishes from Harlem’s history. There’s jerk chicken, marinated for two days, smoked over applewood in a traditional jerk pan and finished with a miso-chili glaze—a recipe Cassell fine-tuned during his years away from the kitchen.The Shrimp Rundown, adapted from his grandmother’s recipe, is simmered in coconut milk and scotch bonnet peppers and served over mashed potatoes with sweet corn. Sides like coconut rice and peas, lemony slaw, and ultra-rich mac and cheese (made with 18 per cent cream and topped with parmesan) round it all out. Coming soon: more vegetarian dishes.

Made with cheddar, parmesan, a bunch of bacon and 18-per-cent cream, this baked mac and cheese is pure comfort
Made with cheddar, parmesan, a bunch of bacon and 18 per cent cream, this baked mac and cheese is pure comfort. Cassell calls it one of his longest-running bad habits. $21

 

Shrimp coated in a crunchy coconut batter and served with sweet chili sauce and a sweet-spicy mayo
Dredged and fried to order to avoid excessive curling (which, pro tip, is generally a sign of overcooked shrimp), these are coated in a crunchy coconut batter and served with sweet chili sauce and sweet-spicy mayo. $26

 

A salad of roasted beets and fresh spinach
A salad of roasted beets and fresh spinach makes for a refreshing reset between bites of everything else. $18

 

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Smoked over applewood in a traditional jerk pan and finished with a miso-chili glaze, the ultra-juicy jerk chicken is served with mac and cheese and crisp cabbage slaw
Smoked over applewood in a traditional jerk pan and finished with a miso-chili glaze, the ultra-juicy jerk chicken is served with a choice of side (mac and cheese, in this case) and crisp cabbage slaw. $28

 

Fried chicken served with coconut rice and peas, coleslaw and a drizzle of house-made gravy and sweet chili sauce
Bone-in chicken is brined overnight in citrus juice, dredged in seasoned flour and deep-fried. It’s served with coconut rice and peas, coleslaw, and a drizzle of house-made gravy and sweet chili sauce. $28

 

Bone-in fried chicken on a crisp, golden waffle, served with sweet chili sauce and syrup
Often imitated but never duplicated, Harlem introduced chicken and waffles to Toronto back in 2006. Bone-in fried chicken on a crisp, golden waffle, served with sweet chili sauce and syrup. $27

 

Shrimp are simmered in coconut milk and scotch bonnet pepper, and served over mashed potato with sweet corn
Here we have a nostalgic dish from Cassell’s childhood summers spent in Jamaica. Shrimp are simmered in coconut milk and scotch bonnet pepper and served over mashed potato with sweet corn. $32

 

Creamy coconut milk fettuccine with spicy Italian sausage, jerk chicken and the aromatic trio of garlic, onion and white wine
Cassell used to make this dish in massive quantities during his university days so he could feast on it throughout the week. He’s refined the recipe since then, but the gist is the same: a creamy coconut milk fettuccine with spicy Italian sausage, jerk chicken, and the aromatic trio of garlic, onion and white wine. $28
The Drinks

There’s a solid lineup of classic cocktails along with house specialties featuring playful twists. The Likkle Lavender is made with lavender syrup and finished with edible glitter for a subtle shimmer. And the sangria-adjacent Kingston tops layers of almond syrup, lime and dark rum with a red wine float. Guests can “remix” any drink by upgrading to a premium spirit for an extra $3.

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The Sunburst is a blend of Amaro Montenegro, grapefruit liqueur and lemon juice
The Sunburst is crisp, citrusy and just the right side of bitter. Gin, Amaro Montenegro, grapefruit liqueur and lemon juice come together in this bright, easy-drinking cocktail. $18

 

With dark rum, honey syrup, and cinnamon bitters, the Harlem Heatwave is warming—but still light enough for summer
With dark rum, honey syrup and cinnamon bitters, the Harlem Heatwave is warming—but still light enough for summer. $18

 

This is the Likkle Lavender, a blend of Ketel One vodka and lime with Prosyro lavender syrup and B’Lure flower extract, topped off with club soda and finished with edible glitter
This is the Likkle Lavender, a blend of Ketel One vodka and lime with Prosyro lavender syrup and B’Lure flower extract, topped off with club soda and finished with edible glitter. $18

 

The Kingston is a rum-based cocktail with almond syrup and lime on the bottom, and a red wine float
The Kingston is a rum-based cocktail with almond syrup and lime on the bottom and a red wine float. Stir it up and it drinks like a sangria—fruity, a little moody and a little bit boozy. $17
The Space

Original murals, including a piece by local graffiti artist Elixir, line the patio. They’re joined by a tribute wall salvaged from Harlem’s original east-end location, which is repainted with new artwork every time a Black icon passes away. A moody mural by artist Regan Morris spans the dining room, comprising 18 fading panels of the same curtain pattern, a visual riff on Oscar Wilde’s famous last words: “Either those curtains go or I do.” There are custom Skeletor chairs, a sculptural mix of wood and metal, and Ankara-cloth banquettes that reference the restaurant’s pan-African roots. In short, there’s history in every corner of the room.

Inside Harlem Restaurant, a Caribbean kitchen and bar on Queen West in Toronto
Looking from Harlem Restaurant's dining room out to Queen West through the garage window
Colourful wallpaper and murals line the walls of Harlem Restaurant's dining room
Banquette seating in the dining room of Harlem Restaurant in Toronto
The back patio at Harlem Underground in Toronto
Graffiti art decorates a brick wall of the patio at Harlem Restaurant

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