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Food & Drink

The owners of two popular Japanese bars are opening a Korean restaurant and brewery

But it isn’t beer they’re brewing

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A selection of dishes at Gyopo Brewery in Toronto
Image via gyopo_brewery_/Instagram

Last year, the brothers behind Gonzo Izakaya, Hansang and Juwon Lee, along with their business partner Hyunchan Jo, opened Kensei Bar, a vibey listening bar at Dundas and Ossington that looks plucked from post-war Japan.

Related: What’s on the menu at Kensei Bar, the newest addition to Toronto’s Japanese kissaten scene

Specializing in inventive cocktails like the Cold Noodle—a savoury and surprising swirl of rum, beef broth, cucumber, umeshu, cardamom and lemon—and Japanese-inspired small plates, the spot has been buzzing ever since.

Keeping up with the momentum, the trio have partnered with makgeolli maker Dohyeon Kim to return to their Korean roots with their newest project: Gyopo, a Korean restaurant and brewery making on-site makgeolli—a milky, slightly sparkling fermented rice wine.

“We’ll be making a range of complex flavour profiles—jasmine, smoked, IPA-style, basil and yuzu, and more—depending on the season,” says Hansang Lee.

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The food menu will lean a bit spicy. Think sharable small plates like Korean oysters dotted with Tabasco ponzu and horseradish aïoli or charcoal-grilled LA galbi, Korean barbecued short ribs.

Related: Where Gateau Ghost chef Jayden Park eats Japanese and Korean food in the west end

“Our goal is to create food that balances authenticity with innovation, so it preserves the soul of Korean cooking while offering something fresh and unexpected,” says Lee.

Gyopo (whose name refers to ethnic Koreans living abroad) is scheduled to open in April at 1456 Dundas Street West.

Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.

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