Advertisement
Proudly Canadian, obsessively Toronto. Subscribe to Toronto Life!
Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Kensei Bar, the newest addition to Toronto’s Japanese kissaten scene

Including uni-topped bruschetta, spaghetti Napolitan and steak with miso-whisky butter

By Erin Hershberg| Photography by Shlomi Amiga
Copy link
What's on the menu at Kensei Bar, the newest addition to Toronto's Japanese kissaten scene

Name: Kensei Bar Contact: 1173 Dundas St. W., kenseibar.ca, @kensei_bar_
Neighbourhood: Trinity-Bellwoods
Owners: Hansang Lee, Juwon Lee, Hyunchan Jo Chef: Hansang Lee Accessibility: Not fully accessible

Born in Busan, South Korea, 27-year-old Hansang Lee came to Toronto on a mission to further his culinary career. “I’ve been interested in the industry since I was 15 years old,” he says. “Both of my parents worked full time, so I learned how to cook for the family. I went to culinary high school, and that’s where I fell in love with all aspects of food and hospitality. When I was 18, I did my obligatory time in the Korean military, where I was chosen to be the commander’s chef.” In 2019, when he finished his service, Lee moved to Toronto to meet his brother, Juwon, who had come to the city a few years earlier to study culinary arts at George Brown.

Juwon Lee , Hyunchan Jo and Hansang Lee, the owner of Toronto's Kensei Bar
Juwon Lee, Hyunchan Jo and Hansang Lee

Related: The Little Jerry, Toronto’s first listening bar for serious audiophiles

The lobby at Kensei Bar in Toronto

In March of 2022, Lee went to work at his brother’s first business venture, Gonzo Izakaya. “It was operating mostly as a takeout restaurant at first because of Covid. When I signed on, the business was slow,” says Lee. He took a trip to Japan to study how good izakayas operate, and when he returned, he overhauled the menu and changed up the space. Gonzo has been buzzing ever since.

With a successful business under their belt, the Lee brothers were ready to take on a new project, convinced that the key to success was meticulous attention to detail. And Kensei Bar, their new cute-as-a-button listening bar at Dundas and Ossington, looks like it was ripped straight out of 1970s Tokyo. “We’re all obsessed with the late Showa period in Japan, which was a significant time for art and music. We wanted to represent that in everything we do here at Kensei,” says Lee. And they do. From the lo-fi jazz to the smooth cocktails matching the music’s ebbs and flows to the punchy small plates, Kensei Bar sings in the details.

Shelves lined with records and bottles of alcohol
The Food

A menu of Japanese-ish plates that—like jazz—welcome harmonious inspiration from the cuisines of other cultures. Olives, for example, are steeped in house-made dashi, and old-school bruschetta is crowned with fresh uni. Heartier plates include bavette steaks dripping in miso-whisky butter and alcohol-absorbing pasta enveloped in an unlikely (for those who have yet to discover Japan’s spaghetti Napolitan, that is) sauce of ketchup, bell peppers and wieners.

Advertisement
Kalamata and Castelvetrano olives steep for three days in a slow-cooked, fragrant dashi
Kalamata and Castelvetrano olives steep for three days in a fragrant slow-cooked dashi. $8

 

Dandelion greens in a sweet-and-savoury paste of toasted white sesame seeds, emulsified egg yolk and soy sauce
The Tanpopo gomae swaps out traditional spinach for earthier dandelion greens, which are blanched, chilled and strained before taking a bath in a sweet-and-savoury paste of toasted white sesame seeds, emulsified egg yolk and soy sauce. $9

 

Classic tomato-topped bruschetta gets a sea urchin twist at Kensei Bar
Classic tomato-topped bruschetta gets a twist: an umami-forward mix of sea urchin, soy, mirin and sake. $11

 

Japanese curry korokke
For these korokke, a house-made Japanese curry roux is folded into steamed-then-mashed potatoes. The mixture is rolled into balls, dipped in panko, fried until golden and drizzled with tonkatsu sauce. $12

 

Panko-coated, deep-fried black tiger shrimp
For the ebi furai, panko-breaded black tiger shrimp are deep-fried and drizzled with tonkatsu sauce. House-made Japanese plum tartar sauce is served on the side for dunking. $18

 

Here we have the potentially divisive Napolitan Pasta, a classic Japanese kissaten item composed of spaghetti in a ketchup-y sauce with green peppers, onions, Johnsonville sausage and parmesan cheese
Here we have the potentially divisive Napolitan pasta. The kitschy dish is a classic Japanese kissaten item composed of spaghetti in a ketchup-based sauce with green peppers, onions, Johnsonville sausage and parmesan cheese. $17
The Drinks

Divided into three categories—Ragtime (low ABV), Swingtime (average ABV) and Blues (super boozy)—the cocktail menu was designed to mimic the food’s flavours. For instance, the White Miso Twist, a blend of Toki, shiro miso, honey and lemon, tastes like a heart-warming bowl of miso soup chased by a glass of fine whisky.

Advertisement
For the Dundas West, Bar Kensei’s take on the manhattan, rye whisky is infused with clove and cinnamon then stirred with Cocchi vermouth and tobacco bitters
For the Dundas West, Bar Kensei’s take on the manhattan, rye whisky is infused with clove and cinnamon, then stirred with Cocchi vermouth and tobacco bitters. It’s garnished with an amarena cherry and served in a vintage coupe. $21

 

The Jasmine Pear Sour cocktail at Kensei Bar in Toronto
The base of the Jasmine Pear Sour is Bombay gin infused with Korean pears. It’s joined by house-made jasmine tea simple syrup and some lemon juice to counterbalance the sweetness. The tangy drink is shaken with egg white and strained. It’s served in a traditional Japanese tea cup and finished with bitters. $17

 

The deeply flavourful Naked Matcha is a Japanese twist on the ubiquitous espresso martini
The deeply flavourful Naked Matcha is a Japanese twist on the ubiquitous espresso martini. It’s made with a mixture of whisky, amaretto, matcha, yuzu, lemon and clarified milk. $18
The Space

Intentionally rec room–like, the moody wood-panelled and wallpapered room is both homey and strangely haunting—it really does look like it’s been pilfered from a bygone era. A discreet wooden DJ booth sits at the centre, surrounded by thrift-store stained glass light fixtures and vintage Japanese liquor ads.

Inside Kensei Bar, a Japanese kissaten in Toronto
Bar seating at Kensei Bar, a Japanese listening bar in Toronto
The walls at Kensei Bar are decorated with Japanese artwork, calendars and vintage liquor ads
Red leather banquette seating at Kensei Bar, a Japanese kissa in Toronto
Shelves are lined with bottles of alcohol and records
A rack on the wall at Kensei Bar holds Japanese newspapers and magazines
Clips on a wire hanger hold a Polaroid photo of a couple on their wedding day

NEVER MISS A TORONTO LIFE STORY

Sign up for Table Talk, our free newsletter with essential food and drink stories.

By signing up, you agree to our terms of use and privacy policy.
You may unsubscribe at any time.

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.

Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.

Advertisement
Advertisement

The Latest

Sort-of Secret: Alice Marie, a new Leslieville bakery and coffee shop with a cult following

Sort-of Secret: Alice Marie, a new Leslieville bakery and coffee shop with a cult following

Inside the Latest Issue

The February issue of Toronto Life features Scottie Barnes, the new face of the Raptors—and the team’s best chance of salvation. Plus, our obsessive coverage of everything that matters now in the city.