Introducing: Darwin, Little Italy’s new modern French bistro

Mains include five-spice braised pork belly on madras rice ($18) as well as more traditional bistro fare, like a classic steak frites ($25).

The drinks: Julian Watson’s (Mistura) cocktail menu consists of tweaked classics, like an old-fashioned with maple syrup ($10) and a Darwin martini ($12), made with black cherry vodka, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice and prosecco.

The place: Darwin’s haute-rustic interior, designed by Neeman Rahman, will be familiar to patrons of L.A.B., which previously occupied the space. New barn board wainscoting has been added to complement the wide plank floor and exposed brick walls. At the back of the tiny dining room, a large wine barrel stamped with the restaurant’s name sits on the back bar.

By the numbers: • 32 seats inside, with additional spots to come once the patio opens • $25, the price of a three-course prix fixe on Sunday industry nights • 9, the number of cocktails for $10 or less • 3 beers on draught, 6 by the bottle, including local craft brews like and bistro staples