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Food & Drink

Antylia brings a taste of Latin America to Bloorcourt

It’s from the husband-and-wife team behind Xolo

By Erin Hershberg| Photography by Shlomi Amiga
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A spread of dishes and drinks at Antylia

Name: Antylia Contact: 1059 Bloor St. W., Toronto, Ontario, M6H 1M5; antyliatoronto.com, @antyliatoronto
Neighbourhood: Bloorcourt Owners: Aldo Camarena, Ashley McKay and Tunnel Vision Chefs: Aldo Camarena and Ashley McKay Accessibility: Not fully accessible

Aldo Camarena took a winding path to get to where he is today. “I was born in Mexico City and moved to East Los Angeles when I was a toddler,” he says. “I remember the first time I was called Latino and realizing, suddenly, that I was from somewhere else. That feeling has always stayed with me. Food from local migrant communities was one of the only things that connected me to my identity. It was always a mix: a little northern Mexican, a little southern, a little American—maybe not authentic, but authentic enough for us.”

Chefs Ashley and Aldo Camarena
Chefs Ashley McKay and Aldo Camarena

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Camarena spent much of his childhood moving around—from Mexico to the US and back—eventually settling in Canada. “We never spent more than a year in one place until we moved here. Even when I moved back to Mexico, I felt like a migrant—I spoke my native language with an East LA accent. I always felt out of place.”

Camarena grew to love Toronto’s multiculturalism. “Seeing neighbourhoods like Kensington Market, Little Jamaica and Chinatown, where people were showing where they came from and who they were through the foods of their cultures, made me feel alive again,” he says. When he was just 13, he started cooking for his family to take the load off his hard-working parents—and in the process, he found his passion. “I realized I could make memories through food, and that was something I needed.”

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A chef slices into a large piece of fish
A chef prepares a cured fish dish

Camarena met his wife, Ashley McKay, whose family is Ecuadorian, while working in the kitchen at Parallel on Geary Avenue. Together, they launched their Latin American pop-up, Xolo, and later, in 2022, they took over the kitchen at the Little Jerry, the city’s first listening bar.

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When offbeat cocktail bar Slice of Life opened across the street, co-owner Eric Pan became a fan of the couple’s cooking. He liked their food so much, in fact, that he decided to back them on their dream project.

For Camarena and McKay, Antylia is about establishing a sense of place—a definition of who they are as both people and chefs. “My whole life, I’ve had to find ways to explain to people who I am,” says Camarena. “For Ashley and me, Antylia is another outlet to share our cultures and our backgrounds. Sometimes it’s easier to do it without words.”

A chef holds three plastic containers filled with different types of corn
The Food

The menu showcases the soul of Latin American cuisine from a fluid, pan-American perspective. The only rule: every dish must be crafted with integrity and must carry a story worth sharing. House-nixtamalized tortillas are pressed from heirloom corn purchased directly from small farms. Vibrant tiradito pairs seasonal peaches with line-caught BC swordfish and popped sorghum (an ancient grain central to many Latin American recipes). And Ecuadorian ceviche is made using a cherished recipe from McKay’s grandmother.

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Fillets of Nova Scotian swordfish are bathed in a punchy peach aguachile, then crowned with compressed Ontario peaches tossed in a house Peruvian chili-lime chamoy
This tropical-leaning tiradito begins with salt-and-sugar-cured sheets of line-caught Nova Scotian swordfish from Affinity Fish. The buttery fillets are bathed in a punchy peach aguachile, then crowned with compressed Ontario peaches tossed in a house Peruvian chili-lime chamoy. Compressed red onions, marigold petals and puffed sorghum add brightness, beauty and texture. $28

 

Local heirloom tomatoes, blanched runner beans, charred sweet corn and golden physalis come together in a bright vinaigrette of serrano chilies, stewed tomatillo and poblano
Inspired by the Three Sisters of Indigenous agriculture (corn, beans and squash), this succotash is summer on a plate. Local heirloom tomatoes, blanched runner beans, charred sweet corn and golden physalis come together in a bright vinaigrette of serrano chili, stewed tomatillo and poblano. The farm-fresh medley is finished with delicate slices of onion and crumbles of cotija cheese. $19

 

Ecuadorian ceviche served with fried green plantain chips
Based on a recipe from McKay’s grandmother, this Ecuadorian-style ceviche builds its sauce on a base of tomatoes, oranges, mustard and ketchup. The bright, tangy broth cradles a mix of sous-vide octopus, citrus-poached abalone and shrimp. A finely diced medley of cucumber, tomato, poblano, jalapeño and sliced red onion adds freshness while chili-dipped orange segments bring some spice and citrus. It’s served with crunchy fried green plantain chips. $27

 

This game-changer of a quesadilla starts with a hand-pressed tortilla made from blue heirloom corn, which is folded around funky queso and herb-driven lamb
This game-changer of a quesadilla starts with a hand-pressed tortilla made from blue heirloom corn, which is folded around funky queso and herb-driven lamb. A bright salsa is served on the side to cut through the richness. $23

 

A chef torches gorditas topped with mole and Quebec foie gras
This dish begins with a gordita enriched by a mix of rendered duck and foie gras fats kneaded into nixtamalized yellow dent corn. Once grilled, the cakes are blanketed in a velvety mole of more duck fat, Ontario black cherries, ancho chili, clove and small-producer Oaxacan chocolate. A crown of buttery Quebec foie gras finishes the indulgent bite. $24

 

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Two gorditas topped with mole and foie gras
Here’s a closer look

 

Roasted pork belly served with a mole verde and fresh herbs
A tribute to Aldo’s Aunt Marina, this dish begins with Ontario pork belly that’s scored and dry-brined for eight hours, then gently cooked sous-vide for another 16. The meat is cured for up to 13 days to dry the skin and ensure maximum crispiness, then roasted to order. It’s served over a mole verde of pumpkin seeds, tomatillos, fresh green chilies and herbs, all surrounded by a lightly dressed wreath of local herbs and vegetables. $35

 

Sliced duck breast and chayote on mole rojo
A Xolo fan favourite, this smoky, juicy duck breast from Hudson Valley rests on a bed of mole rojo, a sesame- and chili-forward sauce with plenty of pop. It’s paired with slices of charred chayote, a subtly sweet summer squash that balances the richness of the meat. $48
The Drinks

There are a few house cocktails—including a pre-batched one that blends Altos Plata tequila with Campari, Cocchi Torino and preserved Ontario strawberries—but the real spotlight is on the wine program. Led by sommelier Adrian Marquez, the list focuses on bottles that harmonize with the spices of Latin American cuisine while highlighting grapes from emerging regions such as Slovenia, Romania, Nova Scotia and Mexico.

The Space

Warm woods, homey tchotchkes and an autumnal faux-flower light installation surround the room’s centerpiece: a circular bar designed to close the distance between chef and diner. The result is a space that feels less like dining out and more like gathering at an intimate dinner party.

The bar at Antylia, behind which is the chefs' prep space
The bar at Antylia, over which dried flowers hang
A corner table by the window in the dining room of Antylia
Candles in wine bottles serve as centrepieces at Antylia
A closeup of a chair upholstered in decorative fabric

Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.

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