Wynona

For the first time since the closure of the charming Saturday Dinette, there’s reason to dine among the variety of shops and hardware stores of the stretch of Gerrard between East Chinatown and Pape. Chef Jeff Bovis has created a space that’s both casual and romantic—especially after a glass of skin-contact grenache rosé. There’s a rustic Mediterranean bent to everything on the menu, and it’s all meant to be shared, even if it’s hard to forfeit anything from a mound of spaghetti tossed with zucchini and anchovy, topped with bottarga and a stracciatella snow cap. And the whole branzino—drizzled with brown butter and buried under an avalanche of olives and capers—wouldn’t look out of place at a small-town taverna.

819 Gerrard St. E., 416-778-5171, wynonatoronto.com