Review: Dundas Park Kitchen brings good, old-fashioned home cooking to Roncy
Dundas Park Kitchen ★½
2066 Dundas St. W., 647-351-4793
Walking into this new Roncesvalles sandwich shop feels like sneaking through the back door of a calm, rustic prep kitchen: most of the floor space is given over to open cooking stations, but thoughtful touches—fresh-cut sunflowers, pressed tin tiles—keep the room warm. Chefs Alex Tso and Melanie Harris prep fresh lunch staples using quality ingredients. Creamy quiche is chock full of mushrooms, and the popular chicken stew (which reheats beautifully) has heaps of shredded meat in every bowl. In the all-day breakfast sandwich, an English muffin holds juicy pork sausage, sweet whole corn kernels, poppy Kozlik’s mustard grains and spicy chimichurri; every bite has zing. On Fridays, the staff bakes up full- and individual-sized pies in both sweet and savoury flavours. In early fall, there was a tangy spiced plum version with a buttery crust. If you’re there on a non-pie day, the salted caramel cookie is a gooey, grown-up version of an Oreo, from a kitchen that respects the value of good home cooking—even when it comes in a takeout box.