Review: Brussels Bistro serves excellent French food in a cozy Victorian house in The Beach

Review: Brussels Bistro serves excellent French food in a cozy Victorian house in The Beach

(Image: Renée Suen)
(Image: Renée Suen) (Image: Renée Suen)
 

Brussels Bistro ★½
1975 Queen St. E., Unit A, 416-694-0004

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Chef Roger Stefan Wils’ Belgian bistro is perfectly suited to the Beaches, serving excellent French standards in the small open kitchen of a Victorian house. A light crumb shell encases the sweet, plump blue crab cakes. Rich broths capture the essence of their ingredients, whether filled with perfectly timed mussels or splashed with red wine and poured over a hefty, supple lamb shank. The meal ends with a milky crème brûlée under a layer of scorched caramel sugar. New and old world wines are slightly pricey, but pair well with the food. Bumbling, inept service brings the whole experience down a few notches.

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