Where Taps Public House chef James Obazee eats in and around Etobicoke
His favourite spots for Nigerian, Indian and Mediterranean food
Queens Harbour—the 23,000-square-foot restaurant on the waterfront with a massive retractable roof—has a sister spot in Mississauga: Taps Public House, a gastropub at Meadowvale Town Centre. Taps also has an all-season patio with a retractable roof—clearly this is a hospitality team that loves a good patio drink. Executive chef Robert Balint worked at Taps until taking over the kitchen at Queens Harbour. Since then, chef James Obazee has taken the reins.
“I’ve been with Taps Public House for about two and a half years,” says Obazee. “One of the things I’m most proud of is helping to launch our new brunch menu.” That menu, which lists dishes like Nutella-stuffed French toast, is now attracting around 450 diners every Saturday and Sunday. “It was a true collaboration with our team, working through countless iterations and tastings, and it reflects how Taps genuinely encourages cooks and chefs to bring their own creativity to the table.”
In his downtime, Obazee is always on the hunt for his next great meal. “The last thing a chef wants to do after a 50-hour workweek is cook more at home,” he says. “Besides, I love going out to eat with my kids and partner, to support other chefs and to be inspired along the way.”
Obazee often explores in and around Etobicoke, where he lives with his family. “It’s where my three kids were born and raised and also where I got my start in the hospitality industry,” he says. Here, he takes us for a tour of his favourite spots.
Naija Jollof
Westwood Square (upper level), 7215 Goreway Dr., Mississauga, naijajollof.com
“I’m Nigerian, so I grew up eating African food. I discovered Naija Jollof through a catered event and asked where they got the food. One thing led to another, and now I’m a regular. I’m usually at the Brampton location or this one. The staff at this location know that I visit every Thursday, so they always have my meal ready to go.”
Go-to dish #1: Nigerian chicken stew with jollof rice
“Jollof is the national dish of Nigeria. While each African country has its own version, in my humble opinion, Nigeria’s is the best. My kids love it. The rice has a dry texture, which is perfect for mopping up all the sauces from the stew. As for the chicken, you get a bit of everything: wings, thighs and breast. It’s very spicy because they use a generous amount of cayenne and scotch bonnet pepper, which I love.”
Go-to dish #2: Cow’s feet
“This is slow-braised and has a springy texture. Back at home in Nigeria, this is definitely the sort of snack to enjoy with beer, like a stout or a Corona. Texturally, it’s very chewy and hyper spicy—just how I like it.”
Maurya East Indian Roti
2481 Lake Shore Blvd. W., Etobicoke, mauryaindianrestaurants.com
“My partner is half-Indian, and her mother makes this incredible lamb biryani dish for us. I come here for the next best thing. I also lived a few blocks away for about six years, so I was a regular.”
Go-to dish #1: Lamb biryani
“They have a sliding scale of heat here, but since I grew up eating spicy food, I always go for the hottest level. The rice here is not dry like the jollof; it’s steamed, so it’s moist. It’s funny because, when I was growing up, I hated the smell of lamb, but now that my taste buds have evolved, I can’t get enough. This dish comes with cooling yogurt, but I have to pass on that because I’m lactose intolerant.”
Go-to dish #2: Szechuan wings
“Because my tolerance for spice is high, this tastes more like a sweet chili to me. The wings are deep-fried, so they have this crusty-crispy snap on the outside. Inside, though, the meat is juicy and tender.”
Go-to drink: Mango lassi
“This has mango smoothie vibes with all kinds of tropical notes. It’s a perfect palate cleanser for all of these indulgent dishes.”
Lume Kitchen and Lounge
72 Park Lawn Rd., Etobicoke, lumetoronto.ca
“I was doing a grocery run at the Metro in the adjacent plaza when I spotted Lume. They serve Mediterranean food, and while it looks upscale, it’s very family friendly. There’s something for everyone, and all three of my kids love the burgers.”
Go-to dish #1: Black tiger shrimp linguine
“This is light, refreshing and pure. You can swap out the olive oil for a heavier cream sauce, but I like it as is. The olive oil is just enough to coat the al dente noodles, and it doesn’t weigh you down. The shrimp are fat, plump and snappy—which is a good sign because that means they’re not overcooked. There’s a touch of salt and pepper as well as some bitterness from the arugula and some shavings of parmesan. It’s simplicity at its finest, executed perfectly.”
Go-to dish #2: Moroccan octopus with hummus, pomegranate labneh, lemon-tomato beurre blanc, fingerling potatoes, sun-dried tomato pesto, marinated olives, pancetta and chive oil
“The first thing you get is the fantastic char and smoke off of the octopus. Visually, it’s so beautiful with that vibrant pomegranate labneh. There’s a lot going on here, but it works because you can mix and match your bites: some briny olive with a swipe of the fruity labneh and a fat hunk of sweet and tender octopus. Whenever I see octopus on the menu, I order it.”
Tiffany Leigh is an award-winning freelance journalist with degrees in business communications and education. She has a culinary background, is a recipient of the Clay Triplette James Beard Foundation scholarship award and has worked in restaurants such as Langdon Hall. In addition to Toronto Life, her pieces have been read in publications such as Forbes, Vogue, Eater, Dwell, Elle, Business Insider, Playboy, Food & Wine and Bon Appétit.
