Where Desi Burger owner Abdul-Rehman “Sonu” Saleem eats in Little India

When he was just 18 years old, Abdul-Rehman Saleem took sole ownership of Desi Burger, a 30-year-old Pakistani street-food institution, from his parents. To friends, family and the Little India neighbourhood, Saleem is better known as Sonu, a South Asian term of endearment similar to “cutie,” often used to address young boys. Now 23, Saleem has worked at Desi Burger from the day he could reach the ghee-laden griddle, learning the coveted chutney, chaat and spiced potato patty recipes from his family and voluntarily selling kulfi and royal falooda from the store’s front window every summer.

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Owning the business had always been Saleem’s dream. “My older brother wasn’t as interested in taking it over—he went into law. I knew I could make Desi Burger a blockbuster success,” he says. “A lot of friends doubted me, saying there was no future in restaurants, but I’ve never been scared or shy of anything. I believed in myself, and that’s brought the business tons of success.” In the past five years, he’s put his knack for modern marketing to work, creating videos of himself passionately explaining his entrepreneurial philosophy—one of commitment to authenticity and old-fashioned elbow grease, told through meticulously curated self-branding. “He shouldn’t be on Gerrard,” says his uncle Muhammed Shameem. “He should be in Hollywood.”

Having only ever strayed from Toronto to visit family in Pakistan, Saleem is as steeped in South Asian cuisine as cardamom pods and pistachios in a cup of Kashmiri chai. And his love for food extends beyond Desi Burger—the whole neighbourhood plays a role in his culinary DNA. Ask him where to eat in Little India and he’ll offer not just a restaurant’s name but the owner’s life story. During Ramadan, he took us for an after-sunset tour of three spots in the neighbourhood—all strategically close to Desi Burger—that he can’t live without.

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The Udupi Palace

1423 Gerrard St. E., 416-405-8189, udupipalaces.ca

“Udupi Palace is the ultimate place for anyone looking for a South Indian game changer. They have a big classic menu with modern ingredients and fusion. Honestly, it’s got such an authentic energy—and the cooks kill it.”

Go-to dish #1: Paper dosa

A show-stopping paper dosa—a crispy, ethereally thin crêpe rolled into a giant horn—is filled with spiced potatoes and served with bowls of sambar and chutney on the side for ripping and dipping. “Udupi does great dosas, and there’s something about a good simple paper dosa. The crunch soaks up the sauces, and it doesn’t need any messing with.”

Go-to dish #2: Three-curry thali (with eggplant curry, chana masala and kadai paneer) and a side of aloo poori

Udupi’s thali plate features velvety dhal, a choice of three curries and a salty, crisp papadam. (Saleem also likes to get a side of fresh aloo poori—the aloo version is richer than its regular poori counterpart.) “Look at all these sauces! I’m always wowed by the katoris here: you’ve got two dhals, eggplant curry, chana masala, kadai paneer and some cooling yogurt, which helps with digestion—or if you can’t handle spice. And this puffy poori is oily and delicious.”

Naan Karahi and BBQ

1330 Gerrard St. E., 416-519-4510, naankarahibbq.com

“Naan Karahi feels like home in a lot of ways—it’s really classic karahi. The chef, Babar Sher, does it right with fresh spice blends and by making everyone feel welcome.”

Go-to dish #1: Chicken karahi with tandoor-style naan

Tender chicken swims in a thick and spicy ginger-tomato curry for this dish that originated in northwestern Pakistan. Saleem prefers to eat it with tandoor-style naan, which is a bit more dense than butter naan, so it holds up well to all the sauce. “You can smell the tarka right away. Tarka is a way of cooking ghee with spices—sometimes people call it Desi ghee—that brings a sizzling flavour to the meat.”

Go-to dish #2: Chicken biryani

“I love eating biryani because it’s such a staple. I find myself eating this a lot for lunch or as an afternoon snack. You’ve got the chicken, you’ve got the rice—already can’t go wrong with that combo—and then it comes with layers of sauce that are both spicy and a little sweet. I love it here because the chicken is always juicy and it’s got a great fresh ginger flavour to it. It’s a big thing!”

Bonus dish: Onion bhaji and spiced fruit

During Ramadan, many restaurants send out fruit and snacks for those who may be experiencing low blood sugar from fasting. At Naan Karahi and BBQ, it was dates, a spread of sliced apple and banana tossed in a fragrant curry powder, and battered and fried onion bhaji.

Kabul Kabab House

1324 Gerrard St. E., 416-466-6000, @kabulkababhouse1

“Kabul Kabab House is one of those spots I go to for really good, no-nonsense grilled meats. The owners know what they’re doing—their kebabs are well-seasoned and packed with legit charcoal flavour. Plus, the portions are solid.”

Go-to dish #1: Beef and onion mantu

Mantu are stuffed pockets made with a thin, silky dough. These ones are filled with a rich beef-and-onion mixture and topped with garlicky yogurt, tomato gravy and dried mint. “There’s a lot going on in just one dish, and that’s what makes the mantu at Kabul Kabab especially good.”

Go-to dish #2: Waziri kabab plate

A self-professed carnivore, Saleem opts for meatier dishes at Kabul Kabab, like this Afghan platter that comes with spiced beef seekh, a skewer of tikka chicken, basmati rice and crunchy veggies. “If there’s no meat at a wedding in Pakistan, it’s not a good wedding,” he says. “I’m a big meat lover, so I appreciate that this plate has two kinds, with a side of green chili sauce and raita. The sauce is the best, most important part.”