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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Paradise Grotto, a new tiki-inspired cocktail bar in the Entertainment District

Including Loco Moco burgers, pu pu platters and a lot of rum-based drinks

By Liza Agrba| Photography by Jelena Subotic
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A spread of dishes and drinks at Paradise Grotto, a Tiki-inspired bar in Toronto's Entertainment District

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Name: Paradise Grotto Contact: 270 Adelaide St. W., unit 101, paradisegrotto.com, @paradise.grotto
Neighbourhood: Entertainment District Owners: Brian Donnelly, Jennifer Ly, Phil Allain, Rachel Dannenfeldt and Oren Williamson (Warm Welcome Management Group) Chefs: Head chef Mark Owen, culinary director Phil Allain Accessibility: Not fully accessible (down a flight of stairs)   Five years ago, John Street resident and long-time hospitality vet Brian Donnelly opened a Mediterranean-inspired cocktail bar called Melrose on Adelaide. He and his partners followed up with wine bar Piccolo Cafe and then a big British pub called St. John’s Tavern. Paradise Grotto, a tiki bar–inspired spot, is his latest contribution to the neighbourhood.

Paradise Grotto head chef Mark Owen and the bar's co-owner Phil Allain
Head chef Mark Owen (left) with co-owner Phil Allain

Donnelly and his partners now effectively own and manage a big chunk of John St., but his ambition isn’t infinite expansion. “I’m committed to this neighbourhood. I want to fill it with unique stand-alone spaces that champion the community as a whole,” he says. “We’re a small team, and the community element is our primary driver.”

Part of the inspiration for Paradise Grotto was the under-representation of rum in the city’s bar scene. “We wanted to showcase spirits the city doesn’t talk about much—and of course celebrate the classics,” says Donnelly. Accordingly, there’s a rum-centric cocktail program accompanying the free-wheeling island-themed menu (with no allegiance to any particular island). And with seats for 100, standing room for more and a DJ booth, it’s also a budding event space with a beachy, urban-oasis vibe.

The thatch-covered entrance of Paradise Grotto, a Tiki-inspired cocktail bar in Toronto
The food

Head chef Mark Owen’s Filipino roots strongly influence his menu, which also takes cues from Polynesian and occasionally Chinese and Japanese cuisine. Think big flavours and vibrant presentation heavy on colour and general pizzazz. The best way to sample Owen’s offerings is with the pu pu platter, which includes bao stuffed with tender cola-braised pork, crisp coconut shrimp and pork sliders, among other shareable snacks. With a liberal (but still very approachable) use of spice, sugar and zippy accoutrements, everything on the menu pairs nicely with rum-based tipples.

A bowl of Ahi tuna and Boston Bibb lettuce lettuce for DIY wraps
Ahi tuna is dressed in a delightful citrusy soy-based marinade and mixed with avocado, cucumber, crispy shallots and scallions. It’s served with Boston Bibb lettuce for DIY wraps. $18

 

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Steamed bao buns are stuffed with cucumbers, pickled jalapeños, sesame seeds, green onion and tender, sticky-sweet pork belly glazed in Coca-Cola
Steamed bao buns are stuffed with cucumbers, pickled jalapenos, sesame seeds, green onion and tender sticky-sweet pork belly glazed in Coca-Cola (also available in a vegetarian version with king oyster mushrooms). $16

 

A plate of vegan dumplings at Paradise Grotto
These vegan dumplings from the Daily Dumpling Wonton Co. are stuffed with spinach and pine nuts and dressed in what you might otherwise dip them in: a mix of sesame oil, house-made chili crisp and black vinegar. They’re garnished with chili threads, green onions and shallots. $19

 

Paradise Grotto's Paradise Fries are crinkle-cut taters tossed in salt and MSG and loaded with kewpie mayo, teriyaki, sriracha, scallions and crispy shallots
These are the crinkle-cut Paradise Fries, tossed in salt and MSG and loaded with kewpie mayo, teriyaki, sriracha, scallions and crispy shallots. $14

 

Steamed edamame is tossed in teriyaki sauce, MSG, lime juice and furikake. It’s topped with chili threads and house-made chili salt
Steamed edamame is tossed in teriyaki sauce, MSG, lime juice and furikake. It’s topped with chili threads and house-made chili salt. $9

 

A plate of karaage chicken wings
The karaage wings come dressed in a pineapple sweet-and-sour sauce, drizzled with kewpie mayo and scattered with chilies and crispy scallions. $15

 

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Chow mein noodles tossed with a mix of ground lamb, bok choy, house-made chili crunch, crispy shallots and scallions
One of the menu’s strongest items, these are the Silk Road Noodles—chow mein noodles tossed with a heady mix of ground lamb, bok choy, house-made chili crisp, crispy shallots and scallions. The dish is brimming with umami and has just the right hit of spice. $25

 

Two pulled pork sliders at Paradise Grotto
Pork shoulder is smoked in-house for up to 12 hours, pulled and dressed with punchy house-made barbecue sauce. It’s piled on a bun along with citrus slaw and house pickles. $17

 

Paradise Grotto's Loco Moco burger
Loco Moco, a Hawaiian staple, is traditionally a burger patty on rice topped with gravy and a sunny-side-up egg. For this handheld version, a bun slathered with garlic-miso mayo subs in for rice. $18

 

A plate of tempura-battered shrimp
Tempura-coated shrimp is tossed in sweet chili sauce and toasted coconut slivers. On the side: chilies, more sweet chili sauce and chili honey. $17

 

A salad of cabbage, carrots, Boston and iceberg lettuce, dressed in a blend of miso, sesame oil, rice vinegar and Asian pear
You know that little salad you get with sushi combos? This is a bigger, better version of that. A combination of cabbage, carrots and Boston and iceberg lettuce is dressed in a blend of miso, sesame oil, rice vinegar and Asian pear. It’s finished with crispy shallots, pickled red onions and chili threads. $13

 

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A plate of Spam fried rice at Paradise Grotto, a Tiki-inspired bar
Comforting Spam fried rice, made with sushi rice, Spam, teriyaki sauce, carrots and peas. It’s garnished with teriyaki, sesame seeds and crispy shallots (also available in a vegetarian version with pineapple subbing in for Spam). $15

 

Paradise Grotto's Huli Huli Hen, two brined chicken thighs, grilled and glazed in a house BBQ sauce
Here we have the Huli-Huli Hen—two chicken thighs brined for 48 hours, grilled and glazed with house barbecue sauce for a sticky, lightly spicy delight. It’s served with pickled daikon and carrots and kimchi-dressed quick pickled cucumbers. $30

 

The Pupu platter at Paradise Grotto is loaded with teriyaki-marinated grilled sirloin tips, crunchy coconut shrimp, pork belly and oyster mushroom bao, Kalua pork sliders and crispy karaage chicken
This is the pu pu combo platter, a no-brainer for small groups. It’s loaded with teriyaki-marinated grilled sirloin tips, crunchy coconut shrimp, pork belly and oyster mushroom baos, Kalua pork sliders, and crispy karaage chicken. $75

 

The drinks

This being a bona fide rum bar, there’s a list of more than 40 bottles (and counting) from countries including Jamaica, Trinidad, Puerto Rico, Barbados and Guyana. There’s even a bottle of Island Diaz from Toronto’s own Nickel 9 Distillery. As for the cocktail list, it’s split between rum-based classics like zombies and dark and stormys, modern twists made using spirits other than rum, and boozy large-format cocktails for sharing. There’s also a short wine list, a selection of beers and more than a few non-alcoholic options, including a killer virgin colada.

The piña colada at Paradise Grotto in Toronto
The piña colada is a blend of house-made Coco Lopez, Havana Club 3 and 7, coconut cream, pineapple, and lime. $17

 

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Paradise Grotto's rum punch
Auntie’s Rum Punch is made with Nicaraguan and Jamaican rum, grenadine, pineapple, orange, house-made falernum, and some bubbles. $19

 

A large-format sharing cocktail at Paradise Grotto in Toronto
One of the large-format cocktails is the nutty, fruity Day of the Dead, made with Appleton Estate signature rum, Amontillado, cachaça, horchata, guava and pineapple. It’s decidedly boozy but delightfully well-balanced. $40
The space

The lower level of 270 Adelaide Street, which now houses Paradise Grotto, used to be a club called Parlour. With low lighting, big booths and a DJ set-up, there are remnants of its moody lounge history that contrast nicely with the new sunny beach bar vibe, complete with tiki thatch at the door. There’s a bar to the right of the entrance, green with a yellow backdrop lighting up its impressive (and, fun fact, geographically organized) display of rum bottles. Coffered ceilings outfitted with LEDs give off dim, cascading light that highlights pops of greenery and organic shapes carved into the finishes. Between the banquettes, four-tops and bar seating, there’s room to mill around or dance. Outside, there’s a spacious patio with another bar; the outdoor area also connects to St. John’s Tavern and Melrose on Adelaide, forming a sweet little venue village.

The bar at Paradise Grotto in Toronto's Entertainment District
A corner booth inside Paradise Grotto, a Tiki-inspired bar in Toronto
Inside Paradise Grotto, a new cocktail bar in Toronto's Entertainment District

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