Name: Okeya Kyujiro
Contact: 26 Bellair St., unit 2F, okeya.ca, @okeyakyujiro Neighbourhood:Yorkville Chef/Owner: Takuya Matsuda
Accessibility: Not accessible—it’s up a flight of stairs
Sushi master Takuya Matsuda started helping his family in the kitchen when he was just 10 years old. He continued down that path and, in 2021, opened Okeya Kyujiro in Montreal, a theatrical omakase experience inspired by a night at Cirque du Soleil. He opened a second location in Vancouver the following year, and the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star in 2023. Now, the experience is available here in Toronto for $350 per person. From Thursday to Sunday, there are dinner seatings at 5:45 p.m. and 8:50 p.m., each limited to just 10 people.
Chef Takuya Matsuda
Much like at a speakeasy, guests enter the restaurant through a hidden door, this one designed to look like a vintage Coca-Cola vending machine. Behind the door is a waiting area built to resemble the interior of a cave—poking fun at the rigidity of tradition. “Everyone is always talking about tradition, so let’s go back a thousand years,” jokes Matsuda.
This unexpected door leads into the restaurant, which used to be a hair salon before construction started two years ago
After being greeted by hosts, guests are led to the waiting room and seated along a U-shaped bar. Then the curtains open (literally) and the show begins. There’s no pressure to chit-chat with the staff—Matsuda wanted to create a comfortable environment where guests were free to enjoy a conversation or simply watch the talented chefs at work. The space is filled with beautiful pieces by Vancouver-based Japanese furniture maker Masaru Kajiwara and hanging light fixtures from Kyoto.
Three to four hosts (roughly one server per pair of guests) guide diners through the courses, answer questions and ensure they always have a fresh towel. At the end of the night, everyone leaves with a full stomach and their choice of omiyage (a souvenir, such as a pair of chopsticks from Kyoto or a fun Japanese mask from Matsuda’s travels).
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The food
Ebi shinjo is crushed shrimp in deep-fried tofu with fried leek and bamboo shoot, dusted with fresh yuzu zest
Chawanmushi, a silky, custard-like steamed egg dish, with snow crab on top
Warayaki is an ancient straw-fired grill cooking technique that comes from the Kochi region of Japan. At Okeya, the sawara warayaki course (Spanish mackerel) is smoked in hay
Zuke maguro is marinated bluefin tuna with a touch of karashi (Japanese mustard that’s a lot spicier than the Western kind) instead of wasabi
Saba bo sushi is a flavourful mackerel that’s pressed and seared for a warm bite
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The botan ebi is spot prawn, which has a delicate, buttery texture. It’s cured with kelp and served with a dollop of caviar on top
Tomorokoshi surinagashi with karasumi, a Japanese-style corn soup with dried mullet roe
The kani miso tofu is deep-fried crab paste tofu and baby eggplant in sweet-and-sour sauce
A display of Japanese baby eggplant
On the left we have bafun uni, a smaller and more densely flavoured sea urchin, crowned with a bit of seaweed jam. On the right is an uni gunkan
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The gindara saikyo yaki is miso-marinated black cod, a fava bean on the side and a colourful ginger root on top
This is kinmedai, also known as the golden eye snapper. It’s tender and mild yet full of umami
This aradashi miso soup is made with shrimp shells
Otoro is the fattiest and most luxurious part of bluefin tuna
Anago (saltwater eel) is one of the priciest fish in Japan. Here, it’s served as tempura
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Tamago, a baked omelette, is a little sweet with a smooth bite
The house-made ramen comes in a bowl of rich seafood broth and is topped with fresh bonito flakes, bits of gold and a delicate piece of sasagiri, or the art of leaf carving—this one is a fan made from kelp
Dessert is monaka, an ice cream sandwich made with thin, crisp mochi wafers; vanilla ice cream; and yuzu jam. It’s served alongside nerikiri, a traditional dessert made from white bean paste (pictured here), as well as pieces of crown melon and Japanese mango
Here’s the melon in question, the market price for which is around $200
The Drinks
Matsuda is heavily involved in many of the products and ingredients he serves, including the wine. Every year, he travels to the Misawa Vineyard and stays for about a month to help with their grape-picking process. They also have sake—including fruit and sparkling varieties—and Japanese beer. For non-alcoholic options, there’s zero-ABV champagne and sparkling green tea.
The meal ends with a traditional tea ceremony featuring matcha from Madame Matcha in Montreal, a small business run by a tea-ceremony specialist
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The lights fade and the curtains are drawn as the show comes to a close
The July issue of Toronto Life features the monster cottages of Muskoka versus the resistance. Plus, our obsessive coverage of everything that matters now in the city.