What’s on the menu at Bar Volo, the new location of Toronto’s favourite craft-beer bar

What’s on the menu at Bar Volo, the new location of Toronto’s favourite craft-beer bar

More on Bar Volo

Name: Bar Volo
Contact: 17 St. Nicholas St., no phone, barvolo.com, @bar_volo
Neighbourhood: Downtown Core
Owners: Julian, Ralph and Tomas Morana
Accessibility: Fully accessible

The drinks

Beer, of course. With 26 lettered taps pouring everything from amber lagers and pale ales to sour IPAs and barrel-aged saisons, there’s plenty to satiate a craft beer lover. But it’s the six hand pumps pouring English cask ales next to the alphabet taps that is the true passion for the Moranas. Right now, they’re serving a rotating list of porters and ales from California, Colorado and Washington, plus an English bitter called Three New Grains from Caledon, Ontario brewer Sonnen Hill. Most of the pumps will be Volo originals once they start up their own brewery in the back.

The wine menu, including sparkling, white, pink and orange by the glass and bottle, marks the Volo brand’s biggest foray into wine yet. Like every menu at the new spot, the Moranas plan to rotate offerings often. Some of the most enticing current options include a “funky” orange wine from Vinos Ambiz in Spain called the Alba; a blend of gewürztraminer, riesling and pinot gris from New Zealand’s Alex Craighead called Kindeli Otoño; and a moscato from Veneto, Italy, called Costadilà Móz.

Just one of the 26 beers currently on tap.

 

Just look at all those taps.

 

There are six rotating cask ales.

 

Some of the most enticing current options include (from left to right) a blend of gewürztraminer, riesling and pinot gris from New Zealand’s Alex Craighead called Kindeli Otoño ($87/bottle), an Italian moscato called the Costadilà Móz ($87/bottle) and a “funky” orange wine from Vinos Ambiz in Spain called the Alba ($97/bottle).

 

Julian (left) and Ralph Morana.

 

The food

After not being the focus for several years—either at the original location or Little Italy’s Birreria Volo—food is back in a big way. “We’re not chefs by trade. It just comes from experience,” said Julian, who says the menu is made up of “unfussy southern Italian food,” and includes a simple rigatoni pasta dish with house-made sauce. Like any good Italian kitchen, Volo is full of bread, courtesy of Forno Cultura. The Moranas are hoping to remind Toronto how bruschetta should be served. “Corporate American restaurant culture has butchered bruschetta,” said Julian.

Volo’s bruschetta is a simple tomato mix with fresh melted mozzarella, made weekly by Quality Cheese. $9.

 

The Sfincione, otherwise known as Sicilian pizza, Forno Cultura bread is topped with San Marzano tomatoes from California, capers, black olives and parmesan, with the option of adding anchovies. $12.

 

The focaccia Barese is made with olive oil and Pachino-style tomatoes, which are named after the town in Sicily where the Moranas’ family originates. $5.

 

Another bread topping option is bottarga (front), which is Sicilian cured mullet roe, over stracciatella cheese. $9.

 

The burrata, served hot with stewed vine-ripe and cherry tomatoes, has been a bestseller so far. $12.

 

The carciofi is bowl of artichoke hearts, charred and canned in Sicily and re-marinated at Volo. Topped with aged Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. $9.

 

Alici is a plate of marinated white anchovies from Spain served with roasted pistachios, hot peppers, piccolo peppers, capers. $12.

 

Cold green bean potato salad with Spanish Ibérico de Bellota panchetta (from acorn-fed pigs). $10.

 

And polpette, house meatballs in red sauce. $14.

 

There’s a plate of prosciutto di parma. $12.

 

The salsiccia is a Sicilian-style swirl sausage from the Colangelo Brothers, a deli in Scarborough where Ralph worked as a kid. It’s served with potatoes, peppers and onions. $15.

 

Here’s a whole spread.

 

The space

The 100-seat dimly lit space harkens back to the first Volo, and die-hards may even notice some relics of the past, including some tables, chairs and light fixtures. But much of the interior is entirely new, or at least newly salvaged. The Moranas relished in the blank slate that was the new space and did the interiors themselves. “It’s sort of unexplainable how all of this came together,” says Tomas. The bar is made out of two 18th-century Egyptian doors. One wall of wood panelling was acquired from a church in Hamilton. The tin ceiling near the front door is from an old barn. And the cabinetry near the bar is from a Hamilton hospital.