What’s on the menu at Akin, chef Eric Chong’s new restaurant with a 10-course blind tasting menu

Name: Akin Contact: 51 Colborne St., akintoronto.com, @akin.toronto
Neighbourhood: St. Lawrence Owners: Eric Chong and Alvin Leung Chef: Eric Chong Accessibility: Not accessible

Eric Chong was inspired to open a new restaurant when the Michelin Guide launched in Toronto. “I feel that, on an international scale, Canadian cuisine gets overlooked,” he says. “But, if you have a star, you’re recognized on the world stage.” It’s always been a dream of Chong’s to earn this designation—and now it’s finally possible. “I’ve wanted it so badly. Having Michelin come to Toronto was the push I needed to start this new venture. I’m aiming for at least one star for Akin.” In late 2022—after Michelin handed out the first round of stars and accolades to Toronto kitchens—Chong began mapping out a plan.

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As with Chong’s other restaurant, R&D, Alvin Leung is a co-owner, but the Hong Kong–based chef and restaurateur has been more hands-off this time around. “He’s provided mentorship from the beginning, though, and as someone with three Michelin stars of his own, it’s always good to get his perspective and to hear his thoughts and suggestions,” says Chong. “He’s always sending me inspiration from around the world.”

The Food

A meal at Akin is 10 courses and three hours long, with dishes drawing inspiration from the cuisines of Hong Kong, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand and Japan. “Through this journey, I’m ultimately trying to create relatability, to allow diners to connect with these dishes on a personal level,” says Chong. For him, this means reinterpreting and elevating key Asian dishes that he thinks many Torontonians and international visitors will be familiar with. “For instance, when I think of congee, I think of porridge, a Chinese fried doughnut (youtiao) and fermented olive leaf. But, at Akin, we top a clear youtiao with congee purée and a fermented olive-leaf aïoli, then finish it with pork powder made from cooking down pork stock with potatoes, then dehydrating it all. So it’s the essence of congee, but refined in terms of taste and presentation, with a touch of playfulness.”

While Chong says it would be nice to source everything locally, or at least from Canada, sometimes it’s just not possible. For instance, there’s no Canadian A5 Wagyu, so Akin sources theirs from Miyazaki, Japan, and the uni is from Hokkaido. But their lobster is from Nova Scotia, their Peking duck comes from Feathered Acres in Fergus and the geoduck is shipped in from Vancouver. “We do our best, canning and preserving Ontario corn and strawberries at their height of the season,” Chong says. “Ultimately, I want to get the best.”

The Drinks

Chong and Leung initially consulted with award-winning bartender Jamison Cass to build out the beverage program. Cass was supposed to stay on, but due to Akin’s delayed opening date—which shifted from March to November—he was unable to remain at this post. Josh Mellet has taken over as bar manager and is now making the 10 drinks designed by Cass, which can be ordered à la carte, and eight other beverages designed to complement the tasting menu courses.

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The Space

“The restaurant itself echoes Akin’s underlying philosophy—it’s both art and a show,” says Chong. He consulted with numerous contractors and designers to bring his vision to life. The main dining room seats 28 and features a custom-made island that does triple duty as storage unit, wine chiller and water dispenser. At the chef’s counter, things get a bit more intimate, with room for only four guests. “Our fully open kitchen is meant to facilitate interaction and engagement,” says Chong. “It’s unlike any other chef’s counter I’ve experienced.” Downstairs, a private dining room with space for eight guests is available for event bookings