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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West

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What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West

Name: Mahjong Bar Contact: 1276 Dundas St. W., 647-291-6097, @mahjongbar
Neighbourhood: Little Portugal Owners: Emily Blake, Joshua LeBlanc, Andrew Perry and Kyle Wong

The drinks

The house cocktails are fresh, funky and packed with pop culture allusions—there’s even a very-2017 Salt Bae one. Asian flavours (pandan leaves, shiso, umeboshi) and spirits (soju, sake, Japanese whiskey) feature prominently throughout. The esoteric draught selection includes Sweden’s Omnipollo Zodiak IPA and cider aged in merlot barrels from the Solera Cider Project. The list of bottled beers includes brews from Portugal, Hawaii, Beijing and exotic Milwaukee.

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
The Stay Cosy is made with sake and soju with a few dashes of Peychaud’s bitters, and a medley of herbaceous flavours (shiso, rosemary and green strawberry). $14.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
The Peach Panther is an easy-sipping combo of salted watermelon, soju, sherry, lemon and sugar. $13.

 

The food

Tricia Soo (who co-owns Ossington’s Malaysian restaurant, Soos) was brought on to create Mahjong Bar’s menu of Chinese small plates.

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
This mushroom-stuffed pastry called a half-moon also comes in a pork permutation. $10.

 

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What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
The shrimp-pork wontons get a kick from Szechuan chili oil. $10.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
Eggplant and crispy pork mixed with preserved turnips are served with two mantou buns. $8.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
The Shanghai noodles are topped with star-anise-and-ginger-braised beef shank, and a lashing of chili oil. $13.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
Snacks on snacks on snacks.

 

The space

Mahjong Bar is tucked behind a Pepto-pink storefront that has shelves stocked with shrimp chips, instant noodles and RuPaul votive candles. There’s a clutch of chairs and few tall cans in the fridge, but the real action happens behind the curtain.

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
The storefront.

 

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What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
Snacks for sale in the bodega.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
At first, it looks like you’re entering a meat locker.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
It leads into a tiny anteroom decked with a few tchotchkes and a keyhole-shaped door.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
The keyhole entrance is similar to one at Cosy Restaurant and Tavern, the Chinese restaurant co-owner Kyle Wong’s grandparents opened in St. Catharines back in the ’60s. The restaurant is still serving egg rolls today.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
Stepping into the dimly lit 2,000-square foot room, the vibe shifts from Wes Anderson to Wong Kar-wai. Design firm Grey North were tasked with bringing a mid-century Hong Kong aesthetic to the former Portuguese sports bar.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
Gabriella Lo painted the jungle mural that spans the length of the sitting area. The four-tops are on a raised platform, so dance parties won’t interrupt diners.

 

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What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West
A picture from the movie that inspired the bar’s aesthetic, In the Mood for Love, hangs above the stairs.

 

What's on the menu at Mahjong Bar, a hideaway cocktail bar on Dundas West

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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.

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