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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end’s new shrine to cider

By Caroline Aksich| Photography by Caroline Aksich
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What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider

Name: Brickworks Ciderhouse Contact: 709 Queen St. E., 647-341-4500, theciderhouse.ca, @brickworkscider
Neighbourhood: South Riverdale Previously: An Sibin Pub Co-founders: Chris Noll and Adam Gerrits Owner: Mill Street (which is owned by Labatt, which is in turn owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev) Chef: Dario Zamora

The drinks

Nine taps devoted to the cidery’s bigger brews (Batch: 1904, Brickworks 501) and their smaller-batch house creations, like mint-basil, the fan favourite so far. Cidermaker Martha Lowry has been experimenting with various apples and yeasts, with plans to produce at least 40 different ciders this year. “Our limit will be space, not ideas,” says Lowry, who just ordered in a batch of different aging barrels, including port, tequila and bourbon. Eventually, she plans to begin introducing Toronto to some of the styles popular in Normandy: ultra-low-sugar and flat options are being discussed.

The single guest cider is currently Spirit Tree’s Winter Bliss, while the remaining five taps are dedicated to Mill Street beers. The cocktails include a few cider-revised classics, like a cider mimosa and a cider mojito.

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Pouring a glass of the Great Framboise, a cider made with raspberries.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Testing an almost-ready cider.

 

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What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Here’s the apple press where Lowry crushes the fresh fruit. It can be rolled straight into the restaurant through the garage-door windows.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
There are two 1,500-litre fermentation tanks tucked behind the bar. Downstairs, there are eight 1,000-litre aging tanks (pictured above).

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Cidermaker Martha Lowry.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Lowry will be working with Toronto group Not Far From the Tree to use apples from Toronto backyards. “Often people don’t want to eat these apples because they’re ugly, but they’re perfect for cider making,” says Brickworks co-founder Chris Noll (pictured above).

 

The food

More than half of what’s on the menu incorporates cider. The apple-based beverage is used to braise meats, steam cockles and dress salads. Heck, even the fries get brined in apple cider vinegar before being tossed in the fryer. The seasonal menu will change regularly but always maintain an emphasis on pairing the dishes to the ciders.

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What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
The Ciderhouse Salad is a mix of kale, quinoa, bacon, goat cheese and pecans, all tossed in an apple cider–poppy seed dressing. $14.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
This (apple-free) tabbouleh hummus plate comes with warm naan. $13.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Iron skillet baked brie, topped with figs, apples, cranberries, pistachio and jalapeño honey. $16.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
This (apple-free) rigatoni is tossed in tomato sauce and topped with chorizo, roasted red peppers and shaved parmesan. $18.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
These pork belly ribs are brined in a soy–star anise blend before they’re slathered in a sambal-maple-cider glaze and served on top of a kale-apple slaw. $15.

 

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What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
This Ontario-sourced, cider-braised beef short rib is served with a horseradish potato purée, broccolini and red onion marmalade. $27.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
The house burger is made with Ontario-ground chuck and topped with cider-braised pork belly, pickled cucumbers and sriracha mayo. $19.

 

The space

Nova Scotia design firm Breakhouse kept the split-level space (adorned with orchard motif murals by Meaghan C. Kehoe) bright and airy.

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
The main-floor dining (and drinking) area.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Here’s the second level.

 

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What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Thanks to the two-storey-high windows, this 156-seat space is drenched in light from morning ’til night.

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
Here are some apples on their way to the press. There are other pastoral allusions tucked into unexpected places (like a deer in the women’s washroom and a fox peeking around a corner).

 

What's on the menu at Brickworks Ciderhouse, the east end's new shrine to cider
How do ya like this apple?

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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.

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