<strong>Chantecler’</strong>s tartare mixes sirloin cap with a briny oyster emulsion. It comes with fresh cucumber, watercress and nori sheets for hand roll–style wrapping. $14. <em>1320 Queen St. W., 416-628-3586.</em>
At <strong>Hopgood’</strong>s, diced scallops and beef heart are blended with pickled zucchini and turnips and a squirt of Tabasco. On top, there’s a crunchy crust of Old Bay–spiced potato chips. $19. <em>325 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-533-2723. </em>
At <strong>Keriwa,</strong> dry-aged deer loin combines with pickled garlic scapes and spruce tips, adobo sauce, spruce oil and elderberry mustard for a superfecta of spicy, sour, savoury and sweet. $18. <em>1690 Queen St. W., 416-533-2552.</em><br />
<strong>Ursa’</strong>s tartare is an earthy woodland feast condensed: elk meat, juniper and sumac berries, pine bark extract and huckleberry-flecked elk jerky. $18. <em>924 Queen St. W., 416-536-8963.</em>
Grainy mustard, chopped gherkins and shaved foie gras kick up <strong>Weslodge’</strong>s rich buffalo tartare. $18. <em>478 King St. W., 416-274-8766.</em>