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Food & Drink

Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale

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Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Our review

The Commodore's Jon Vettraino excels at small plates
Food & Drink

The Commodore’s Jon Vettraino excels at small plates

Name: The Commodore Neighbourhood: Parkdale Contact: 1265 Queen St. W., @TheCommodoreBar, commodorebar.ca
Previously: Wasabi, a short-lived vegetarian sushi restaurant Co-owners: Jon Vettraino and Jason Romanoff Chef: Jon Vettraino (F’Amelia, Splendido, 416 Snack Bar)

The food: A seafood-heavy menu of small sharing plates (oysters, a seafood tower, calamari ragu risotto and smoked mackerel rillettes), plus a few bistro classics with modern ingredients (like the grilled bavette with potato purée which comes with a choice of shiitake mushroom gravy or uni butter).

Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Pork cheeks and tongue are cooked sous vide for three days, then topped with maple-caramelized apples. $12.

Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Romanesco gratin gets a kick from roasted garlic and pecorino. $8.

Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Swordfish crudo is topped with pickled sea asparagus and mustard seeds, Trinidad peppers, shiso leaves and crispy chicken skin. Vettraino sources his fish from Fisherfolk and Hooked. $13.

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Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Duck confit tourchons are topped with Kewpie mayo, chilies, scallions, peanuts and mint, and served on a tapioca starch, rice flour and coconut cream crêpe. $12.

Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Pumpkin pudding, topped with a graham cracker crumble and torched marshmallowy meringue, is served in an antique teacup. $8.

The drinks: A short wine list of affordable bottles is complemented by Ontario craft beer, including seasonal draught from Nickel Brook, Left Field and Oast House. The cocktail list is heavy on the classics (French 75, Vieux Carré) with four house specialties (like the on-tap Bobby Burns made with scotch, sweet vermouth and benedictine).

Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)

Lolita: earl grey–infused rye, Islay scotch, Amaro Nonino, egg white, lemon, sugar. $12.

The space: “We wanted it to look nautical without being kitschy,” says Vettraino, “so no lobster traps or fish nets.” Marx Kruis, who designed Bar Isabel, transformed the 35-seat spot with faux-vaulted ceilings painted white to make the room feel more like a ship’s hull. The lights that hang above the bar have real maritime cred: they were salvaged from Captain John’s now decommissioned ship.

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Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)
Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Image: Caroline Aksich)
Introducing: The Commodore, a seafood-focused spot in Parkdale
(Images: Caroline Aksich)

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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.

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