A dessert at this new omakase restaurant went viral before it was even open
Get a load of Sushi Kiwami’s Japanese crown melon cake
Name: Sushi Kiwami
Contact: 599 Yonge St., 647-891-7668, sushikiwami.ca, @sushikiwami_toronto
Neighborhood: Church-Wellesley
Owners: Barry Chen (Sushi Kiwami in Richmond, BC) and Jenny Guo
Executive chef: Yuta Arase (Sushi Kiwami in Richmond, BC)
Accessibility: Fully accessible
Toronto’s latest omakase restaurant, a BC import, was making waves on social media even before it officially opened, all thanks to a very unique cake. The restaurant’s melon cake layers fruit, cream and sponge cake inside a pricey Japanese crown melon. It arrives unassumingly whole at the table, then it’s sliced into wedges, revealing the dessert within.
“Maybe it’s just good marketing or perfect timing,” says executive chef Yuta Arase, who is still amazed by the attention the cake is getting.
Related: Masaki Saito’s new ramen restaurant makes only 100 bowls a day
The Food
Sushi Kiwami’s premium omakase experience ($299 per person) remains true to tradition, with a seasonally driven menu made using the finest ingredients from Japan, including fish flown in directly from auction in Shimane,where Arase is from, and high-quality local products like spot prawns.
A meticulously prepared meal here starts with a warm course (soup or silky chawanmushi), which is followed by a volley of precisely cut sashimi and an artfully prepared platter of delicate appetizers accompanied by house gari (pickled ginger), lily bulbs (they mellow out the ginger’s bite) and an array of jewel-like tsukemono (Japanese pickles).
Mains include a selection of grilled courses and a show-stopping display of Edomae-style sushi served on rice seasoned with a proprietary blend of red vinegars from the Kyoto prefecture. The meal concludes with miso soup and a slice of that much-hyped melon cake.
The Drinks
Once the restaurant’s liquor licence arrives, guests can expect a list of premium sake peppered with local wine and beer. Here, sake is chilled to the appropriate temperature and served in elegant hand-cut crystal glasses.
The Space
Located on the ground floor of the Gloucester building, Sushi Kiwami’s tranquil oasis is accessed via a discreet entrance off Yonge. The intimate, minimalist space is clad in pale Japanese Hinoki wood and divided into two dining rooms: the main one, which seats nine, and a private dining room that accommodates up to seven guests. A glance up reveals an intricate hand-carved wood ceiling framed by sakura wood and bamboo. Beyond the sushi counter, guests will find a striking custom-built himuro, a non-refrigerated version of a traditional Japanese icebox, with wood and chrome latches. The case stores the fish selected by executive chef Arase, allowing them to rest until they reach the ideal serving temperature.
