“I immediately knew it would complicate things”: Reyna owner Nicki Laborie on what it’s like to run a restaurant in the US right now

Nicki Laborie, the restaurateur behind Toronto’s popular Reyna Yorkville and Reyna on King, boldly ventured south in 2022, planting her flag (and her Mediterranean-inspired tapas menu) in New York’s notoriously competitive Union Square. As her 6,000-square-foot US outpost nears its third anniversary, Laborie still finds herself shuttling between Toronto and NYC, navigating the choppy waters of Donald Trump’s tariffs and cross-border complexities. We caught up with her for a candid chat about doing bilateral business in tumultuous times.

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Can you tell us about your business in the Big Apple? Think of it as an elevator pitch to get a discerning diner through the door. The property is called Reyna, and it’s absolutely stunning. It follows the same Reyna brand from Toronto. The space is inviting, friendly and focused on elevated food. While our Toronto restaurants are more snack-bar style, in New York we feature larger dishes, like paella and seafood towers. We also have a gorgeous speakeasy downstairs called Le Louis, which was featured in The Real Housewives of New York City.

When you first planned your US expansion, what excited you most about taking your brand south? Honestly, it was the chance to bring my vision to life in New York, a city I’ve always loved—it’s my favourite place in the world. I began my career there back in 1996, so when leases became more reasonable during Covid, I jumped at the opportunity. In fact, on a per-square-foot basis, my rent in New York is now pretty much on par with my rent in Toronto.

In the US media, do they ever mention that you’re a Canadian export? Is it part of your brand story down there? Yes! The media always highlights our Toronto roots—but it’s not the central angle of any story about us.

Did you modify your brand at all for US audiences? We didn’t modify the brand itself—it’s still distinctly Reyna—but we did tweak the offerings based on what New Yorkers prefer. They responded more to elevated full meals rather than snack-style dishes. So we introduced paella and seafood towers and shifted away from the small plates we have in Toronto. Our promotions are also slightly Americanized to appeal to their preference for choice, variety and larger portions.

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What went through your mind when the trade tensions first flared up? Honestly? Just, Jesus Christ. It was shocking. It feels like everywhere is on fire these days. I immediately knew it would complicate things. At the end of the day, it’s just another challenge we need to navigate.

What’s it like running a business in the US right now compared with in Toronto? Overall, running a business there is similar to running a business here, but there are nuances. The biggest surprise was how consumer spending fluctuates, especially influenced by political events like elections. In the run up to Trump’s election, people noticeably tightened their spending. Once the election was over, spending rebounded sharply, highlighting how politically sensitive spending habits can be in the US. New Yorkers are definitely discerning and vocal about what they like. It requires constant adaptation, but I genuinely love my clientele down there.

Have these new trade issues caused any headaches or unexpected hurdles for your daily operations? I wouldn’t call them hurdles—more like extra work. In Toronto, we’re redoing our cocktail menu, switching entirely to Canadian products.

Has the trade war forced you to tweak your business plans at all? Not dramatically. If anything, it might actually open up more opportunities. Trump’s policies seem to be making the rich richer, which could mean there’s more investment money floating around—especially from angel investors looking for new ventures. Who knows, maybe this could work in our favour, potentially funding future plans to grow our brand into warmer locales. For some time now, I’ve been dreaming about expanding to either Florida or the Caribbean. I’ve never been a fan of cold and snow—sorry, Toronto! That being said, we are currently renovating Reyna Yorkville, so my attention and energy is still fairly divided between the US and Canada.

Any regrets about the US move given everything that’s happened? (We promise we won’t judge.) No regrets. I absolutely love New York despite the current challenges. The trade issues are frustrating, but the excitement and opportunity of operating in a city I adore outweigh the difficulties.

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.