Review: charcuterie and Bavarian beer at Das Gasthaus on the Danforth

Vintage chandeliers, cuckoo clocks and floral murals adorn the Danforth’s new restaurant, creating a casual vibe that falls somewhere between neighbourhood café and German beer hall. The food is authentically Teutonic, which means most dishes are heavy and intensely caloric, but still worthwhile. A chewy sourdough bread with beet butter goes well with a platter of cured roast beef and liver sausage; both are hearty and flavourful, especially with dabs of grainy mustard and sweet pickled veggies. A plate of three plump sausages includes a standout pork option and an excellent potato salad upgraded with yam, kale and cashews. A tough and flavourless veal schnitzel falls flat, but the sides—a pile of sour red cabbage–apple slaw and bacon-dotted spaetzle—save the plate. The short wine list has some good options from Niagara and the Rhineland, but this is a German restaurant, so you’re better off selecting from the slate of Bavarian beers and pilsners. Servers are attentive, but could use a course at the Goethe Institut to help guests pronounce their dinner choices.

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