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Food & Drink

Review: As the city approaches peak taco, Campechano stands out from the crowd

Review: As the city approaches peak taco, Campechano stands out from the crowd
Campechano’s ceviche. Photo by Renée Suen

Campechano ★★★ 504 Adelaide St. W., 416-777-2800

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Introducing: Campechano, King West's new gluten-free taquería
Food & Drink

Introducing: Campechano, King West’s new gluten-free taquería

At the latest entrant into Toronto’s casual-Mexican scene, fresh sea bass ceviche (pictured above), swimming in citrus, honours tradition with its tongue-puckering brightness. The restaurant’s namesake taco, a mix of beef and too-tame chorizo, is elevated by a sprinkling of crunchy chicharrones. But as the city approaches peak taco, it takes something special to stand out. Here, it’s the tortillas made with imported corn that’s ground in-house. The vegetal notes in the delicate discs shine in the quesadillas, stuffed with beef or mushrooms and loads of oaxaca cheese. The lone dessert, a lightly spiced flan, exists at the delectable crossroads of cheesecake, butterscotch pudding and crème brulée.

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