Name: Queens Harbour
Contact: 245 Queens Quay W., queensharbour.ca, @queensharbourto Neighbourhood:Harbourfront Owners: Kevin Jazexhi, Ali Badreddine and Iris Jazexhi
Chef: Robert Balint
Accessibility: Fully accessible
When Kevin Jazexhi decided to work on a project that would be a game-changer for Toronto’s waterfront, he didn’t think he’d end up with something the size of Queens Harbour. The new lakeside spot is almost comically big at 23,000 square feet, with a retractable roof rivalled only by the Rogers Centre. “My sister Iris and I had always been interested in opening something on the waterfront,” says Jazexhi. “But the property my real estate agent showed me was the 2,000-square-foot former Lavazzo café next door. When I told him it was too small, he showed me this place. I told him he was insane, but here we are.”
“We like to call it Mediterr-Asian,” says Jazexhi. The encyclopedic menu lists Euro classics like steak frites and pasta; Asian favourites including sushi, Wagyu and sake-fried chicken; and North American staples like burgers and a club sandwich. There are also seafood platters, including one titled “the Whole Damn Harbour”—a dry-iced, multi-tiered spectacle stacked with a full lobster, salmon tataki, hamachi crudo, jumbo shrimp, a dozen PEI oysters, tuna tartare and nigiri (Kaluga Imperial caviar is, of course, an add-on option, because there are no half-measures when it comes to a splurge this big).
This trio of Mediterranean dips includes hummus, labneh and muhammara. The old-world throuple is served with sumac-dusted puffed pita. $19
The Greek Village Salad features a sweet and firm selection of heirloom tomatoes, kalamata olives, crunchy cucumber, red onion and green pepper. It’s topped with a slab of Greek feta and sprinkled with fresh mint and oregano. $21
The Harbour Salad is a hearty mix of kale and spinach, built to stand up to a creamy tahini vinaigrette. Into the greens go roasted pistachios, sweet grapes and tangy pickled onions. On top: a flurry of espresso-washed parmesan shavings. $20
The house take on carbonara is an example of that Mediterr-Asian cuisine Jazexhi was talking about. The classic creamy sauce gets a hit of miso for an umami-rich twist. Linguine noodles are coated in the indulgent blend, then met with a trio of mushrooms (shiitake, button and cremini) and topped with crispy pancetta and a perfectly cooked quail egg, which gets stirred in tableside. $26
A whole seabass is brushed with chermoula, grilled, then covered with imported roasted red pepper chimichurri and garnished with cilantro and crispy shallots. On the side: a light green salad with crispy chickpeas and more of that espresso parmesan. $42
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The steak-and-sushi plate features the crowd-pleasing Papi Shrimp Tempura Roll and a seared flatiron steak sitting in a pool of wafu sauce. $38
Here we have a variety of sushi offerings, starting with the spicy tuna roll (left): chopped tuna and sriracha mayo combined to make spicy tuna tartare, which is found both inside the roll and on top. A fine, crispy lotus chip adds that necessary bit of crunch, and thinly sliced serrano finishes the whole thing off ($22). Next, the tropical Miami roll sees seasoned rice stuffed with tuna, salmon, mango and avocado, then sprinkled with tobiko, drizzled with yuzu ranch and dotted with crispy rice ($23). After that is a collection of nigiri, including albacore ($9), bluefin tuna ($12) and sockeye salmon ($8). Last but not least is the Papi Shrimp Tempura Roll, a delightfully overloaded rice wheel stuffed with thinly sliced cucumber, deep-fried shrimp and blanched asparagus ($21)
The Whole Damn Harbour is a tiered treasure trove of chilled seafood. The top shelf stars tender jumbo shrimp and a whole lobster. There’s also a mini sushi bar, with bluefin tuna, hamachi, albacore and salmon nigiri. Dig a little deeper to find a dozen briny Pickle Point oysters and a bright tuna tartare with lotus chips for scooping. There’s also a delicate hamachi crudo, thinly sliced and drizzled with avocado coulis and yuzu ponzu, then finished with crispy puffed rice. $195
The Drinks
There are twists on classic cocktails, like the Japanese Smoked Old Fashioned, a blend of Suntory whisky, Angostura, demerara and Amarena cherry, all smoked with maple chips. Less-moody ones bring tropical flavours and poolside vibes. There’s the Havana Hammock, an undeniably delicious concoction of amber rum, creamy Rumchata, crème de banane, pineapple, vanilla, cinnamon, demerara, lime and orgeat. It’s proof that you don’t need clarified milk to craft a solid drink.
The Dragonfruit Smash is a summery blend of dragon fruit syrup, fresh lemon juice and vodka, garnished with grated nutmeg and fresh mint. $16
This house take on a traditional sour incorporates fig and fresh herb syrup, lemon juice, bourbon, and egg white for a wonderfully jammy and tart drink. $16
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While this looks very much like a spicy margarita, the Spicy and Passion does not contain tequila. Instead, the tropical lowball is a blend of vodka, triple sec, lemon, passion fruit, demerara syrup and spicy bitters. It’s rimmed with Tajín and garnished with a chili pepper. $17
The Space
The palatial space has two kitchens, three distinct dining areas, two patios, three bars and a pair of private dining rooms. A full-glass façade framed by heritage brick gives way to a vibrant interior alive with colour, greenery, oak design elements and that jaw-dropping retractable roof—all working in harmony to blur the line between inside and out.
Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.
