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Food & Drink

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining

These are the restaurants that have defined the city’s culinary scene

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1. The Senator (est. 1929) Born as the Busy Bee Diner, renamed in ’48, a jazz club added in ’90—and still serving fry-ups almost a century on.

2. The Lakeview (est. 1932) A 24-hour time capsule in Trinity-Bellwoods with more IMDb credits than some C-listers.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
The Lakeview photo via CP Images © Fox Searchlight Pictures. All Rights reserved. Courtesy of the Everett Collection

3. Peter Pan (est. 1936) A no-frills Queen West lunch spot for 15-cent onion sandwiches gets hip in ’74, when Sandy Stagg and co. take over. A young Susur Lee makes a kitchen cameo.

4. Fran’s (est. 1940) Glenn Gould’s go-to for 2 a.m. scrambled eggs and the diner that introduces us to the banquet burger, topped with cheese and peameal bacon.

5. Nanking Tavern (1947–1979) The first of Chinatown’s Big Four, where Elizabeth Street gets a taste for chop suey and egg rolls.

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Related: These are Toronto’s best new restaurants of 2026

6. Switzer’s Deli (1946–1991) A Jewish deli holdout as Spadina shifts from knishes to noodles.

7. The Town and Country (1949–1981) One of the first all-you-can-eat buffets, back when the concept was exotic, classy even.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
The Town and Country photo research assistance by Jamie Bradburn

8. La Chaumière (1950–1988) Meat-and-­potatoes Hogtown meets haute French: butter, wine and frogs’ legs.

9. House of Fuji-Matsu (1955–1958) Chopsticks were still foreign when Toronto’s first Japanese restaurant opened, so a quick tutorial came with the meal.

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10. Pancer’s Original Deli (est. 1957) The fourth generation of Pancers is still making overstuffed pastrami sandwiches in North York.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Pancer’s by Rick Madonik/Toronto Star/Getty Images

11. Vesuvio Pizza and Spaghetti House (1957–2020) The Junction is a dry ’hood in ’57, so the Pugliese family makes pizza—then a novelty—the party.

12. House of Chan (est. 1958) Where bow-tied waiters still serve rib-eye, live-tank lobster and egg foo young, just a block east now.

13. Barberian’s Steak House (est. 1959) The same formula holds: steak, white linens and lots of wine.

14. Kwong Chow (1959–1985) Where Toronto first lined up for dim sum, thanks to Doyle Lumb and his community organizer wife, Jean.

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15. Harvey’s (est. 1959) Richmond Hill’s answer to American burger chains, still letting you have it your way 295 locations later.

16. Captain John’s Seafood (1970–2012) From fine dining to duct tape, this Adriatic ship drifts into disrepair in Toronto’s harbour.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining

17. Chateau Briand (1960–1963) The city’s first-ever restaurant with—gasp!—a patio opens on College.

18. Coffee Mill (1963–2014) Where boho Yorkvillians fell for good espresso and al fresco dining.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
The Coffee Mill by Bob Olsen/Toronto Star/Getty Images

19. Ed’s Warehouse (1966–2000) Honest Ed’s solution for hungry Royal Alex crowds: roast beef and wild Victoriana. Jackets required.

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20. Winston’s (1966–1990) The “Don of the Dining Room,” John Arena, runs the city’s original power lunch in an art nouveau room built for discretion and deal making, with private phone lines at the tables.

21. Three Small Rooms (1966–1991) Prime rib: out. Shrimp cocktail: passé. Foie gras, though? Decidedly in at hotelier George ­Minden’s Windsor Arms trendsetter.

22. Joso’s (est. 1967) A Yugoslavian folk singer serving Dalmatian fish in a bacchanalian room later immortalized on a Drake album cover.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Joso’s by Boris Spremo/Toronto Star/Getty Images

23. Bar Diplomatico (est. 1968) As Italians pour into Toronto, the Dip is where they find espresso, pizza and football.

24. The Underground Railroad (1969–1989) One of Toronto’s first Black-owned soul food restaurants, where ribs, jazz and history fill the room.

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25. Indian Rice Factory (1970–2013) Unimpressed with Toronto’s subcontinental cuisine, Amar Patel fixes it with fragrant curries.

26. Cheese Boutique (est. 1970) The Pristines become Toronto’s first family of cheese, eventually supplying many of the city’s best restaurants with the good stuff.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Cheese Boutique by J. P. Moczulski/Canadian Press

27. Yitz’s Delicatessen (1972–2019) Eg and Av’s go-to for corned beef piled high and matzo ball soup, a hug from Bubbe in a bowl.

28. Truffles (1972–2009) The Four Seasons’ original dining room, once among the city’s priciest tables, famed for its “black gold” truffled spaghettini.

29. Fentons (1976–1990) Toronto goes gaga for posh power lunches with champagne by the glass and leek-and- stilton soup.

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30. Carousel Bakery (est. 1977) Where Toronto’s official dish—peameal bacon on a bun—is born.

31. Bemelmans (1977–1994) With looser liquor laws and Studio 54 in the air, this address becomes Yorkville’s velvet-roped glitterati hang.

32. Le Sélect Bistro (est. 1977) Frédéric Geisweiller’s beloved bistro (where Albert Ponzo made his name) serves up steak frites (merci) for decades, moving from Queen West to Wellington West in 2006.

33. Okonomi House (est. 1978) A test run for an Osaka chain that never expanded but continues to fuel U of T students with savoury pancakes.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Okonomi House by Steve Russell/Toronto Star/Getty Images

34. Swatow (est. 1980) The night continues past last call here with “cold tea” and chow mein.

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35. The Rosedale Diner (1978–2023) Dubi and Esti Filar prove that nostalgia can somehow be current, with a menu mirroring the city’s growing multiculturalism.

36. Queen Mother Cafe (est. 1978) The source of Toronto’s enduring pad Thai obsession.

37. Pronto (1981–2001) On the heels of Biffi, Franco Prevedello’s second act cements him as the face of Cal-Ital dining; later taken over by Mark McEwan.

38. Scaramouche (est. 1980) Before Keith Froggett took over the Benvenuto kitchen, chefs Jamie Kennedy and Michael ­Stadtländer make the midtown condominium a dining destination (the views didn’t hurt).

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Scaramouche by James Lewcun/Globe and Mail

39. Nami (1984–2026) A Moriyama-designed power lunch den that gives Toronto (and the world) sushi pizza.

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40. The Real Jerk (est. 1984) From oxtail served on paper plates to a Drake shout-out—started from the bottom, indeed. RIP, Ed Pottinger.

41. Yueh Tung (est. 1986) The Liu family introduces the city to Hakka and turns chili chicken into downtown’s unofficial lunch staple.

42. Centro (1987–2013) Franco Prevedello strikes again with his $2-­million midtown moonshot in marble and leather that minted Michael Bonacini, Mark Thuet, Chris McDonald and Frank Parhizgar.

43. Rodney’s Oyster House (est. 1987) Long before the ubiquitous buck-a-shuck, there was Rodney Clark, Toronto’s very first oyster man.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Rodney’s Oyster House by Ron Bull/Toronto Star/Getty Images

44. Lotus (1987–1997) Susur Lee’s grand solo debut, where fusion finds its footing.

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45. Golden Turtle (est. 1987) The Nguyen family starts ladling pho on Ossington, which will become the city’s trendiest strip.

46. Oceans (1989–1991) Charles Khabouth tries to fuse clubland with fine dining. Star turns from Greg Couillard and Susur Lee give the place citywide sizzle before it eventually fizzles.

47. Prego Della Piazza (1987–2010) Massimo Capra in the kitchen, Michael Carlevale at the door and a no-­cameras policy that begets a heap of celebrity cameos, from Pierre Trudeau to Paris Hilton.

48. North 44° (1990–2018) Mark McEwan’s uptown stronghold ushers in new-wave fine dining.

49. Fresh (est. 1991) Ruth Tal’s Queen West juice bar launches her chain of vegan kitchens. The same conglomerate that owns the Keg and Swiss Chalet eventually adds Fresh to its portfolio.

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50. Splendido (1991–2015) A culinary inheritance that passes from Franco Prevedello to Yannick Bigourdan and David Lee to, finally, a 27-year-old Victor Barry.

51. Terroni (est. 1992) From humble trattoria to mini-empire—and still no modifications allowed a dozen locations later.

52. Jump (est. 1993) An appropriate name for the restaurant that launched the Oliver and Bonacini empire.

53. Eigensinn Farm (est. 1993) Loco for locavorism, Michael Stadtländer ditches city life for 100 acres in Grey County.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Eigensinn Farm by Ian Williams/Getty Images

54. Sotto Sotto (est. 1993) A 2014 Christmas Day fire leaves York­ville elite (and Drake, again) eulogizing gnocchi. Two months later, they’re back in business a few doors north.

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55. Rol San (est. 1994) The Hong Kong migration wave revitalizes Chinatown with clattering carts and towers of bamboo steamer baskets.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Rol San by Dominic Chan/Canadian Press

56. Canoe (est. 1995) Fifty-four floors up a Mies van der Rohe–designed skyscraper, O&B cements its place in the power lunch hall of fame.

57. Lai Wah Heen (1995–2023; 2025–) As close as Toronto will get to dining at the Peninsula: Canson Tsang brings posh dim sum to the Metropolitan Hotel. After a two-year closure, the restaurant reopens in 2025 under new management.

58. Trattoria Nervosa (est. 1996) In a narrow yellow Victorian, Janet Zuccarini keeps it simple—pizza, pasta, salads—and Yorkville eats it up.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Photo courtesy of Trattoria Nervosa

59. Sassafraz (est. 1997) A fusion of French, Cali­fornian and Japanese makes a splash in York­ville, at a TIFF haunt tucked in a townhouse.

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60. Susur (2000–2008) Chef Lee returns from his Singapore sabbatical; soon, King West will go mad for his 19-ingredient slaw, still being served at Lee (but with five additional ingredients).

A tiered platter of snacks from Susur
Susur by Fred Lum/Globe and Mail

61. Blowfish (2003–2018) The sushi bar on a then-barren stretch of King West is Hanif Harji’s prelude to Patria and Byblos.

62. Bymark (est. 2002) Bay Street expense accounts embrace McEwan’s $40 gourmet burger.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Photo courtesy of Bymark

63. Didier (2004–2013) Didier Leroy’s Yonge Street bistro belongs to that in-between era: midtown is still the heart of the city’s fine-dining scene, but not for long—the centre of gravity is shifting south.

64. Ultra Supper Club (2003–2012; 2023–) It’s déjà vu: club czar Charles Khabouth’s second bid to fuse dinner and dancing (this time on Queen West); shuttered in 2012, resurrected in midtown in 2023.

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65. The Drake (est. 2004) A scene-y hotel that becomes the landing pad for talented chefs including David Chrystian, Anthony Rose, Ted Corrado, Alex Feswick and Matt Ravenscroft.

66. Colborne Lane (2006–2013) Claudio Aprile’s pre-Origin origin story, with El Bulli theatrics.

67. C5 (2007–2013) The ROM’s top-floor restaurant swaps homegrown Corrado for the sparkle of Albertan celeb chef Corbin Tomaszeski.

68. Amaya (est. 2007) Hemant Bhagwani takes Indian fine dining mainstream, then scales it into Amaya Express before selling his empire in 2017.

69. Foxley (est. 2007) This South Asian tapas bar from Tom Thai is Ossington’s first hip address.

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70. Sukhothai (est. 2008) The launch pad for Nuit Regular’s Thai food empire; Sabai Sabai, Pai and Kiin follow.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Sukhothai by Andrew Francis Wallace/Toronto Star/Getty Images

71. The Harbord Room (2007–2016) In his tiny pink Harbord Street spot, Cory Vitiello woos Toronto with sexy cocktails, duck ragù and maybe the city’s best burger.

72. BarChef (est. 2008) Frankie Solarik puts a BFA and a BSc in a cocktail shaker, banishing bar rail drinks to the background.

73. The Black Hoof (2008–2018) Jen Agg and Grant van Gameren introduce Torontonians to all parts of the animal.

74. Harlem (2006–2025) A restaurant and cultural hub for Toronto’s Black creatives (and anyone who loves chicken and waffles).

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75. Nota Bene (2008–2018) Post Splendido, another splendid Lee-and-Bigourdan destination for high rollers who live for 60-day- aged steaks and three-ounce martinis.

76. Jacobs and Co. Steakhouse (est. 2007) From Brant to Bay, a shrine to beef with cuts from Japan, Spain, Australia and North America; $10 extra for the tableside caesar salad remains worth it.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Jacobs and Co. by Shlomi Amiga

77. Buca (est. 2009) Rob Gentile teaches Torontonians about regional Italian cuisine at his esoteric pasta kingdom on King West.

78. Swish by Han (2009–2014) Four years before Oddseoul starts slinging squash poutine on Ossington, brothers Leemo and Leeto Han cut their teeth on Wellington.

79. Guu (est. 2009) The Vancouver chain arrives on Church Street, introducing Toronto to the high-energy art of the Japanese izakaya.

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80. Ruby WatchCo (2010–2020) From screen to plate: TV celebrity chef Lynn Crawford’s sharing plates make Riverdale a dining destination.

81. Parts and Labour (2010–2019) The Parkdale restaurant that launches Matty Matheson, home to the P&L burger and Matty Fest mayhem.

A young Matty Matheson at Parts and Labour
Parts and Labour by Keith Beaty/Toronto Star/Getty Images

82. The Burger’s Priest (est. 2010) Shant Mardirosian preaches the gospel of fresh, never-frozen smash burgers to a cult following at his 350-square-foot shop in the Beaches.

83. Toronto Underground Market (2011–2014) Before pop-ups were a thing, TUM packs Evergreen Brick Works with emerging chefs and hungry crowds; its offspring include La Carnita, Seven Lives and Fidel Gastro.

84. Grand Electric (2011–2022) The road to gentrification is paved with pig’s head tacos: a pair of ex–Black Hoofers open a taqueria in Parkdale.

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Pork tacos from Grand Electric
Grand Electric by @grandelectricrestaurants/instagram

85. Momofuku (2012–2022) Celeb chef David Chang arrives from NYC and claims three floors of the Shangri-La, serving ramen, bo ssam and sake slushies.

86. Café Boulud (est. 2012) On Momofuku’s heels, Daniel Boulud lands at the new Four Seasons: Parisian polish upstairs, dBar for the cinq-à-sept set below.

87. Richmond Station (est. 2012)
Top Chef Canada season two champ Carl Heinrich bets his $100,000 winnings on himself by opening a restaurant devoted to whole-­animal butchery right downtown.

88. Edulis (est. 2012) Tobey Nemeth and Michael Caballo take over the Niagara Street Cafe and teach Toronto how to lunch like Catalonia.

89. Actinolite (est. 2012) On a quiet stretch of Ossington north of Bloor, Justin Cournoyer opens an ode to Ontario terroir.

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90. Fidel Gastro’s Priscilla (2012–2020) Matthew Basile—the self-appointed leader of Toronto’s “sandwich revolution”—fights for a city filled with food trucks.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Fidel Gastro’s Priscilla by Chris So/Toronto Star/Getty Images

91. Bar Raval (est. 2015) Grant van Gameren serves Spanish pintxos to standing-room-only crowds. The city can’t get enough of the boquerones.

92. Alo (est. 2015) Patrick Kriss becomes the new emperor of Toronto fine dining. His obsessive attention to detail will eventually earn the restaurant a Michelin star.

93. Masaki Saito (est. 2019) Three years after it opens, this seven-seat Avenue Road omakase counter will become the first Toronto restaurant to earn two Michelin stars.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Masaki Saito by Ashley van der Laan

94. Eataly (est. 2019) A snaking line down Bloor proves that Toronto is hungry for all things Italian, especially when they come straight from Tuscany.

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95. 20 Victoria (est. 2021) After the pandemic draws a curtain on Bay Street’s Brothers, Chris White gives people a reason (that doesn’t involve a passport renewal) to visit Victoria Street.

96. Mimi Chinese (est. 2021) Big Hug Hospitality (a.k.a. chef David Schwartz) enters the scene with four-foot-long belt noodles.

97. Toronto Michelin Guide (est. 2022) The tire company rolls into town, doling out stars.

98. Prime Seafood Palace (est. 2022) The same year The Bear debuts, Matty Matheson pivots from chaos to capital with this high-gloss modern steakhouse.

One hundred pivotal moments in the history of Toronto dining
Prime Seafood Palace by Daniel Neuhaus

99. Yan Dining Room (est. 2024) Momo­fuku’s last executive chef, Eva Chin, serves neo-­Chinese in the back room of Hong Shing.

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100. LSL (2024–2026) The restaurant with the most Michelin-starred chefs under one roof—Didier Leroy, Masaki Saito and Christian Le Squer—rebrands as Onze after Leroy leaves, taking one of the Ls with him.

Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.

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