Name: NAO (an acronym for “New and Old”) Neighbourhood: Yorkville Contact Info:90 Avenue Rd., 416-367-4141, naosteakhouse.com Owners: Charles Khabouth, Hanif Harji, Stuart Cameron and Tim Foley Chefs: Stuart Cameron (also the exec chef at Patria, Weslodge and Byblos) and chef de cuisine Andrew Bradford.
The Food: The Asian-American fusion trend finds full expression in this plush new steakhouse from restaurant impresarios Charles Khabouth and Hanif Harji. NAO offers some caveman-sized cuts of beef—including a 64-ounce rib steak that’s carved tableside—but it’s not just a boys’ club. “We wanted NAO to be female-friendly,” says Kabbouth. Lighter options (salads, tartare) are punched up with predominantly Japanese flavourings, like miso, yuzu, ponzu and “Bull-Dog” sauce, a sweet and savoury Japanese condiment. (NAO makes its own version in-house.) Cameron spent months researching and sourcing the very best of everything, including fresh wasabi from B.C., Wagyu beef from Japan and bamboo barrel–aged finishing salt from South Korea.
The Drinks: Michael Garrett was brought over from Weslodge to create a cocktail menu featuring 14 signature drinks crafted with house-made tonics, syrups and bitters. (The Basho Sour, for instance, blends pineapple-infused sake with lemon juice, hibiscus syrup and egg whites.)
The Place: A multi-tiered chandelier hangs over the split-level space, which is flush with fancy design details (Italian-leather banquettes, African oak floors). Painted mirrors depicting skeletal fish, among other scenes, are simultaneously eerie and enchanting.
A gigantic chandelier hangs over the split-level space. (It’s made up of 156 acrylic tubes.) Years ago, Harji saw the chandelier in a magazine from the 1920s and cut out the page. He had a local lighting company recreate the centrepiece.
This butter-lettuce salad is Cameron’s play on the complimentary iceberg salad that always comes with a take-out sushi order. It’s topped with carrots, avocado, ricotta salata and chili-spiced pecans ($14).
Seared scallops are perched on oxtail <em>gow gee</em> (steamed dumplings). They’re bathed in a soy-flavoured beurre blanc with porcini mushrooms and shaved white truffles. A sheet of crispy rice, reminiscent of a savoury tuile, sits on top ($24).
Dungeness crab <em>korokke</em> (croquettes) are splashed with <em>nitsume,</em> a glaze made from eel broth, mirin and soy. They’re topped with <em>furikake,</em> a dry Japanese seasoning made from seaweed and sesame ($14).
Patatas bravas is a traditional Spanish potato dish. NAO’s Japanese rendition is flavoured with fruity tonkatsu sauce, mayo, bonito flakes and chili ($10).
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