The person who brought Shake Shack to Canada opened a restaurant in Forest Hill

Earlier this month, a new Mediterranean restaurant quietly opened in the former home of Mashu Mashu in Forest Hill, the stretch of Spadina just north of St. Clair that, despite its affluence, has struggled to sustain contemporary restaurants for decades. The neighbourhood remains better known for legacy institutions, like Pizza Banfi and Edo, than for ambitious new arrivals, making Gigi’s one of its most notable openings in years.

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Behind the project is Mike Kimel, who heads Harlo Entertainment, the hospitality group behind Linny’s, Shake Shack Canada, and a growing portfolio of restaurant concepts in Toronto and Miami. But this project is not under the Harlo umbrella. For Kimel, who grew up nearby and now lives in the area with his wife and five children, Gigi’s—named after his late mother-in-law—is personal.

“I remember coming to the village as a kid, when it felt buzzy and alive,” says Kimel. “I wanted to bring that back so my kids and my friends could enjoy it again.”

The economy is not what it once was, so Kimel knew that, if he wanted to help reinvigorate Forest Hill’s dining scene, he would need to make some calculated decisions, the first of which was finding a chef.

Kimel thought of Endri Xhihani, the chef and owner of Mashu Mashu Mediterranean Grill, who had trained at the Rushton, a Wychwood neighbourhood stalwart. While he was familiar with Xhihani’s deft hand with hummus, falafel and shawarma, he was curious to see what he could do with pasta. “My family and I had been dining at Mashu Mashu for years,” he says. “I knew the chef very well and recognized his talent. One day I asked him to cook me a plate of pasta, and I knew my instincts were right.”

Kimel purchased Mashu Mashu early last fall and brought Xhihani on as both chef and partner, with plans to transform the space into what it is today: a neighbourhood restaurant open for lunch and dinner, offering contemporary cooking, plenty of options and an approachable price point.

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“Our margins are definitely tighter than what you’d see at the Harlo restaurants,” says Kimel. “This one is less about profit. It’s for the neighbourhood, my friends and my family.”

While the menu ventures into luxury territory with dishes like Wagyu picanha served alongside truffle-parmesan fries, its real strength lies in its breadth and accessibility. Classic pastas (amatriciana, pomodoro, bolognese) all come in under $30, while a wide selection of internationally inspired small plates (marinated Greek anchovies, polpette di nonna, patatas bravas) sits alongside crudos and larger-format mains.

One thing diners won’t find, however, is a burger—Kimel already has that category covered elsewhere.