Hot Plate: Five Toronto takes on the Japanese egg sandwich

Any self-respecting convenience store, or konbini in Japan, is guaranteed to stock tamago sandos: the country’s beloved egg sandwich. The closest comparison in the West would be classic egg salad, but the key distinction of the Japanese version is the use of kewpie mayonnaise, which adds a sweetness and acidity to the rich filling. In its purest form, the sandwich involves hard-boiled eggs—mashed and mixed with that kewpie mayo—packed between two slices of crustless milk bread.

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The no-fuss snack is emerging as Toronto’s hottest new sandwich trend. While some restaurants and cafés are sticking to the traditional approach, others are elevating the dish with creative twists. Here, five Toronto takes on the Japanese standby.

The one with a Korean twist

1 Since opening earlier this year, Toroast has attracted lineups for their snap-worthy sandwiches, which, according to owner Yeongkyun Kim, take a page from Korean street toast. “We soak our bread in a mixture of egg and water before toasting it, which is a very popular method in Korea,” says Kim. Toroast’s egg toast features made-from-scratch milk bread and a pillowy soft Japanese-style omelette, seasoned with salt and a little bit of sugar. The popular breakfast spot offers not one but three types of house mayo—classic, spicy and sweet—which allows for a choose-your-own-egg-sandwich adventure. $8. 364 Huron St., @toroast.ca

The one with a folded egg

2 Egg Club was hatched from a desire to offer Torontonians an exceptional egg sandwich at an affordable price. The brand’s three co-founders, who all come from fine-dining backgrounds, have designed a sandwich that’s both substantial and satisfying at a price that appeals to the masses. Their classic sando features soft milk bread toasted to perfection and filled with a soft scrambled egg, gently folded and shaped as it cooks. According to co-owner Timothy Shin, they chose this style of egg to ensure that the sandwich would be easy to enjoy on the go without causing a mess. $7. Four locations in Toronto, eggclub.ca

The one with a hard-boiled egg

3 Hattendo baker and kitchen supervisor Kumi Sakahasi says a commitment to quality is always at the forefront of Japanese food culture. “When we make egg sandwiches, we want to provide our customers with the best. Some restaurants might only put mayo and butter in the centre of the bread, but we spread them from edge to edge.” The dessert shop also opts for eggs enriched with omega-3 fatty acids: the larger eggs with tougher, darker shells more closely resemble the high-quality varieties found in Japan. At Hattendo, they also incorporate a boiled egg in the centre of the egg salad mixture, which creates a stunning cross-section when the sandwich is cut in half and adds a bouncy texture to the otherwise creamy (and sweet, thanks to extra kewpie mayo) filling. $6. Two locations in Toronto, hattendo.ca

The one with onion

4 Ohiru Cafe serves brunch classics infused with Japanese flavours, but their tamago sando stands out as one of the menu’s few traditional dishes. According to owner and chef Anthony Chu, the key to a perfect egg sandwich is the cooking time. “Underdone eggs will cause the sandwich to be too soft, and overdone eggs will lead to an overly firm sandwich.” He found the perfect balance by boiling the eggs for exactly 10 minutes before transferring them to an ice bath, then peeling and mashing them with salt, pepper, sugar, kewpie mayo and one unique twist: finely chopped onion. “It’s so well incorporated that you don’t even notice it,” says Chu. $17 (includes a side of nori fries). 370 College St., ohiru.ca

The one with a kick

5 It’s no surprise that the egg sando is Neo Coffee Bar’s bestselling sandwich. Having grown up in Japan, manager of operations Kengo Torikai knows the recipe for its success. Torikai is adamant that each bite of the sandwich should involve more filling than bread, which Neo makes in-house, leaving the crust fully intact. The café distinguishes their sandwich with a signature kick by using yuzu-kosho paste, a tangy, spicy and salty Japanese condiment made from fermented chilies and yuzu peel. “People have gotten used to the chili paste,” says Torikai. “They love it.” $8.95. Five locations in Toronto, neocoffeebar.com