The new Aga Khan Museum, housed in an unapologetically modern building designed by Japanese architect Fumihiko Maki, isn’t without a few historical nods. There are the traditional Islamic motifs on the museum’s patterned glass and, of course, its host of medieval Islamic artifacts—but the theme even extends to the in-house restaurant, Diwan (Persian for “meeting place”), which is decorated with centuries-old doors and panels from Damascus. Chef Patrick Riley (previously of Far Niente and Perigee) executes a pan-Islamic menu meant to complement the museum’s collection. Among the dishes are specialities from across the Islamic world, including items from Iran, Turkey, North Africa and India. “We’re currently working on version 2.0 of the menu,” says sous-chef Walid El-Tawel. “We want to showcase traditional flavours, while modernizing the dishes.” For one thing, the lamb tagine, usually cooked in clay, will be getting sous-vide treatment instead. Diwan will start serving dinners today, December 2.
77 Wynford Drive, agakhanmuseum.org/dine, 416-646-4670
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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.