
Toronto is chock-a-block with Japanese comfort food. We have our pick of ramen shops, izakayas and okonomiyaki houses—and 7-Eleven has finally started stocking the egg sando. But, still, one Tokyo staple has been missing: the hambagu.
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Somewhere between German meatloaf and bunless burgers, hambagu patties will soon be available at Boru, a new restaurant set to open at Adelaide and Portland, with bar seating encircling an open-flame grill. Its service will be entirely digital, with guests punching in orders at kiosks before sitting down, and its menu is tight. The main attraction is the hambagu, a grilled beef patty with onion and panko mixed in. A $38 set menu includes three hambagu patties, miso soup, radish, egg and unlimited rice. Add-ons like kimchi are available for a bit extra.
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The juicy pucks get sent out one at a time, along with instructive suggestions for how to enjoy them. Choose-your-own-adventure condiments—fresh ginger, chili paste, ponzu—are served communally, but none of them are meant for the initial patty, which is to be eaten plain. The idea is to first experience the meat and its char unmediated. The second is served with pickled daikon to wake up the palate, and the last is meant to be eaten with a raw egg, which diners crack, strain and plop the yolk on top of the piping patty.
While no opening date has been announced yet, rumour has it that Boru will be slinging its sizzling pucks before May.
Lindsey King is a Toronto-based writer and editor whose work can be found in Toronto Life, Maclean’s, Canada’s 100 Best and more. She is interested in arts and culture, food and drink, architecture, design, and real estate stories