Just off a graffitied alley in Trinity Bellwoods Park, Anthony Rose is slinging no-nonsense barbecue sandwiches at Big Crow But Little, a condensed version of his open-air smokehouse on Dupont. There are only three sandwiches on the menu: pulled pork, chopped brisket and the 60/60, a mix of western-style North Carolina pulled pork and Texas brisket. When asked about the differences between each barbecue style, Rose says, “People should just eat the fuckin’ sandwiches—I’m melding things I like.” The only sides available are coleslaw, Covered Bridge potato chips and giant pickles on sticks. The Bellwoods-facing patio seats 15 and—for those who are afraid to break the no-drinking-in-the-park rule—it’s fully licensed.
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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.