Acadia, one of Toronto’s most innovative kitchens, is becoming a casual trattoria

Little Italy’s Acadia is the culinary equivalent of a troubled genius: despite stellar reviews across the board, the refined Lowcountry kitchen has never quite felt comfortable in its own skin, cycling through three chefs in as many years (the most recent being Top Chef Canada alum Dustin Gallagher). Now, owners Scott and Lindsey Selland are vetoing the entire concept and starting from scratch.

Post City reports that Acadia will reopen in late January as Red Sauce, a kid-friendly Italian-American restaurant serving chicken wings, veal parmigiana heroes and a signature house beer. While the turn to snackable comfort food is certainly on-trend, the reaction from the culinary community has so far been less-than-enthused. Chowhounders have expressed skepticism and critic Joanne Kates called the change “the end of an era.” Acadia will serve its final Southern-inspired meal on December 31.