
Toronto’s sushi master Masaki Saito is about to make waves in an unexpected venue: a movie theatre. No, he’s not taking over a concession stand (but that would be a brilliant stunt). The Hokkaido-born chef behind the first Canadian restaurant to earn two Michelin stars is now the subject of a forthcoming documentary, which will premiere at this year’s TIFF.
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Produced by Rhombus Media (Red Violin, Enemy, Seven Veils) and directed by Jamal Burger and Jukan Tateisi, Still Single traces Saito’s journey from rural Japan to Toronto. It illustrates not only how he has transformed our city’s culinary landscape but how he has had to reconcile his accomplishments and fame with his identity, which was shaped by the collectivist values of a traditional Japanese upbringing. “Saito had to leave all he knew behind to recreate his life elsewhere, because where he’s from wouldn’t let him do it,” says the director’s statement. “This film was important for us to make because, as dreamers ourselves, it was interesting to understand that there’s no such thing as a Japanese dream.”
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The film sets out to reveal a different side of Saito—not the one who pulls off head-to-toe Gucci or Louis Vuitton outfits but the one who hails from humble beginnings. It was three years in the making and begins at the 2022 Michelin Awards ceremony before going back in time to trace Saito’s career path. Just 36 years old with four restaurants under his belt, Saito has made a name for himself—but mostly among those who can afford to recognize it. The omakase at his eponymous sushi spot in Yorkville costs just shy of $700. The same goes for dinner at LSL, a nine-seat restaurant he runs with chefs Didier Leroy and Christian Le Squer.
These days, his daily grind includes training future sushi masters at MSSM and charity work for Chef’s Circle, a dinner series that supports Sunnybrook Hospital. As it turns out, he’s more than just a fashion plate and a purveyor of expensive fish. Speaking of money, tickets to the movie will run from $30 to $100—but chances are they’ll sell out in 30 minutes, like Saito’s last collaboration dinner.
Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.