From Toronto to Tofino With Love

Flying is bad for the planet, the US is cringey until further notice and popular European destinations have had it with overwhelming hordes of tourists. In other words, there’s never been a better time to explore Canada. Our seven-day, elbows-up, cross-country road trip covers everything from butter tarts to bao, hoodoos to hot springs. (And, yes, we promise to venture east next time!)

Related: Nine unique culinary experiences in Ontario worth the road trip

Day 1: Toronto to Sault Ste. Marie

Approximately 700 kilometres (or 7.5 hours)

Explore Here: The Big Nickel
Greater Sudbury, ON

The Big Nickel, Sudbury’s oversized claim to fame, is 61 years old and still standing strong. At nine metres tall, it’s the world’s largest coin and a snap-worthy stop.

Eat Here: Deluxe Hamburgers
1737 Regent St., Greater Sudbury, ON

Proudly displaying its red-and-white colour scheme, mid-century modern architecture and singular golden arch since 1960, the iconic family-run, fast-casual Deluxe Hamburgers has been churning out homestyle burgers for generations. The best bet is a Super Cheese with bacon—a slice of American cheese, a couple of juicy patties and crispy strips of bacon—accompanied by an order of fresh-cut fries and a side of creamy coleslaw. For dessert, the sweet and sticky homemade butter tarts are a must (just make sure to bring some extra wet wipes).

Eat Here: Ernie’s Coffee Shop
13 Queen St. E., Sault Ste. Marie, ON

Established in 1971 as a family-run diner, Ernie’s was reimagined in 2020 by chef John Armstrong (formerly of Côte de Bœuf). It retains the soul of a small-town greasy spoon but is elevated by creative modern cooking. Hyper-local and vegetable-­forward, Ernie’s menu leans heavily on the agriculture of Northern Ontario and features dishes that celebrate freshwater fish—like delicate trout with local spring vegetables—as well as meat from Penokean Hills Farms. While offerings rotate, Armstrong keeps the original coconut cream pie and fried chicken on the card as staples.

Explore Here: Sault Ste. Marie Boardwalk
St. Mary’s River Dr., Sault Ste. Marie, ON

Walking the 1.5-kilometre promenade along St. Mary’s River is a great way to stretch your legs after the long haul and catch a glimpse of the freighters passing through the Soo Locks. Scenic highlight: architect Gordon Mezzomo’s 7.5-metre-tall steel-and-glass pyramid sculpture near the Delta Hotel.

Eat Here: Paesano Foods Ltd.
305 Wellington St. W., Sault Ste. Marie, ON

Thanks to a booming steel industry, a wave of Italian immigrants settled in Sault Ste. Marie in the 1940s. Today, Italian Canadians make up roughly 20 per cent of the city’s population, and naturally, Italian food is plentiful. If you’re not in the mood for a deep-fried panzerotto—which locals affectionately call an “Italian egg roll”—from beloved hotspot ­Aurora’s, swing by Paesano for some homemade ravioli. The traditional Italian deli has been serving up sausages, imported cheeses and hot counter fare since 1965 and is the perfect place to carb-load before the next leg.

Day 2: Sault Ste. Marie to Thunder Bay

Approximately 700 kilometres (or 7.5 hours)

Explore Here: Old Woman Bay
Northern tip of Lake Superior Provincial Park, ON

Located in Lake Superior Provincial Park, Old Woman Bay features a breathtaking stretch of sandy beach and granite cliffs that eerily resemble the profile of an old woman’s face. Bonus: if you want to add some kitsch to your trip, Wawa’s iconic 8.5-metre-tall Canada goose is just a 20-minute drive north.

Explore Here: Pebble Beach
Marathon, ON

On the north shore of Lake Superior, in the town of Marathon, Pebble Beach is well worth the 30-minute detour. The seaside wonder is known for its sprawling expanse of polished stones and smooth, colourful cobbles lining the water.

Explore Here: Aguasabon Falls
Terrace Bay, ON

The cool mist from the gothically stunning 30-metre falls cascading into a narrow gorge is a more effective refresher than any Tim Hortons stop could ever be.

Eat Here: The Hoito
Country Market, 425 Northern Ave., Dove Building, Thunder Bay, ON

Fun fact: Thunder Bay has the largest percentage of Finnish Canadians in the country, with a population of nearly 15,000. Craving affordable home-cooked food, early settlers working in the bush founded the Hoito back in 1918. A fire ravaged their full-service location in 2021, but the Hoito has soldiered on. At the Country Market on Wednesdays and Sundays, it serves up Finnish pancakes, or lätty—an impossibly thin take on the classic breakfast item that’s soft and chewy on the inside and crispy on the outside—along with maple syrup, strawberry sauce or a dusting of powdered sugar.

Day 3: Thunder Bay to Winnipeg

Approximately 700 kilometres (or 7.5 hours)

Eat Here: Rae and Jerry’s
1405 Portage Ave., Winnipeg, MB

Easily spotted on Portage Avenue by the vintage free-standing sign advertising its cocktail lounge, steak and prime rib, this renowned Winnipeg restaurant is a must-visit. Complete with ruby-red vinyl banquettes and wood panelling, RJ’s epitomizes mid-century modern dining and features a timeless menu that has endured since 1957. Come hungry and eat like it’s the 1950s: entrées include complimentary tomato juice or soup and two sides, and everything revolves around the meat. Any of the charbroiled steaks will do, but the prime rib has a particular effect—making a tired traveller feel like Don Draper after landing a big account.

Shop Here: The Forks and the Exchange District
1 Forks Market Rd. and 492 Main St., Winnipeg, MB

The Forks has been at the centre of the region’s cultural and commercial life since its beginnings as an Indigenous trade route thousands of years ago. Later, it became a railway hub, and today it’s part curated marketplace and part open-air public square, anchored by an airy six-storey glass atrium with sweeping views of the Red and Assiniboine rivers. Inside, local artisans, vendors and chef-y eateries abound. There’s also a lively patio that transforms into a canopied ice rink in the winter. And it’s a short walk on the Nestaweya River Trail to the Exchange District, home to funky shops and restaurants inside stunning turn-of-the-century buildings.

Eat Here: Deer and Almond
85 Princess St., Winnipeg, MB

Owned and operated by chef Mandel Hitzer, Deer and Almond showcases local, seasonal ingredients with a modern sharing-style menu that draws inspiration from around the globe. Grilled Atlantic lobster swims in ajo blanco—a traditional Spanish peasant soup—instead of butter; roast chicken is stuffed with merguez sausage and paired with salsa negra and fried rice; and fresh Manitoba pickerel is served in a garlicky Basque pil pil emulsion.

Shop Here: Hoopers
1400 Sargent Ave., Winnipeg, MB

What began as a twee mid-century passion project in the Exchange District has grown into the go-to store for stylish furnishings in Winnipeg’s West End. Nearly three decades since opening his eponymous shop, Warren Hooper remains an expert curator of clean lines and Scandi design. A walk through his store feels like a free tour of a bona fide tastemaker’s private collection.

Eat Here: VJ’s Drive Inn
170 Main St., Winnipeg, MB

When VJ’s opened its rickety shack on Main Street back in 1958, downtown was bustling—trolleys, buses and pedestrians filled the streets. Over the years, that hum has quieted, but VJ’s—which sells some two tonnes of fries a week and 50 kilos of burgers a day—is one of the best reasons to visit the core. While the classic beef burger is a beauty, the real draw is the VJ’s Special: a recipe developed by former owner Nick Calogeris and now executed by his son, John. This loaded take on a classic patty sandwich is topped with mustard, onion, dill pickle spears, lettuce, tomato, mayo and a secret-­recipe chili. It’s nothing short of pure beefy joy.

Day 4: Winnipeg to Regina

Approximately 570 kilometres (or 6 hours)

Explore Here: Spirit Sands
Spruce Woods Provincial Park, MB

Manitoba is known for its frigid temperatures and vast prairies, but it’s also home to a desert-like expanse with shifting sand dunes, pincushion cacti and hognose snakes just two hours from Winnipeg. A hike beyond the dunes will bring you to the Devil’s Punch Bowl, an azure oasis of spruce trees around a crater-shaped lake.

Eat Here: Bar Willow
3000 Wascana Dr., Regina, SK

Featuring Regina’s self-proclaimed largest deck, Bar Willow is a casual gastro­pub serving patio-perfect cocktails, wines by the glass and a variety of bar snacks—all with unimpeded views of ­Wascana Lake. Snack on ­delicately fried artichokes or go full when-in-Rome with pan-fried prairie-sourced pickerel. Afterward, stroll through Wascana Centre for a view of the impressive Saskatchewan Legislative Building.

Explore Here: Assiniboia Gallery
2266 Smith St., Regina, SK

There’s no better time for true patriot love, and Regina’s Assiniboia Gallery has been giving it since 1977. A hub for collectors and curious visitors alike, the AG has curated works by some of Canada’s most celebrated artists, including Dorothy Knowles, William ­Perehudoff, Sheila Kernan and Angela ­Morgan. The gallery is also a steadfast champion of emerging talent, contributing to Canada’s rich landscape of contemporary art.

Eat Here: Houston Pizza
Multiple locations (original at 3422 Hill Ave.), Regina, SK

There’s Chicago deep dish, the New York slice, even Windsor-style pizza—but have you ever heard of a Regina-style pie? Ask any local and they’ll point you to Houston Pizza, the go-to spot since 1970. Owned by the Kolistas brothers, the chain made its name with its signature square all-dressed pie: a thick, chewy crust piled high with nine toppings (including meats, veggies and sometimes even pine­apple) and heaps of cheese. The hefty pizza became so beloved that imitators began popping up across the city, and the style became known simply as “Regina pizza.”

Day 5: Regina to Calgary

Approximately 750 kilometres (or 7.5 hours)

Shop Here: Seven Rivers Trading Co.
219 Sixth Ave. SE., Medicine Hat, AB

Kind of like an Etsy for Albertan makers and situated in a quaint Medicine Hat shop, Seven Rivers Trading Co. offers a wide range of gift-y small-batch items that runs the gamut from hot sauces and preserves to homemade candles to apparel.

Explore Here: The World’s Tallest Teepee
15 Eagle Birth Rd. SW., Medicine Hat, AB

The Saamis Tepee was originally built for the 1988 Calgary Winter Olympics and is the world’s tallest. Standing more than 65 metres high and made from 200 tonnes of steel, this engineering marvel is said to have been more difficult to build than the Eiffel Tower. It features 10 storyboards hand-painted by Indigenous artists, each depicting a different aspect of First Nations and Métis culture.

Explore Here: Willow Creek Hoodoos
Coulee Way, Drumheller, AB

Break up the drive through the Drumheller badlands with a quick stop at the hoodoos—towering sandstone columns with flat, hard rock caps that look like gargantuan stone mushrooms. Formed over millions of years by natural forces carving away at the rock, they’re viewable from a designated area complete with walkways and detailed signage. Being there feels like getting lost on the set of David Lynch’s Dune.

Explore Here: Studio Bell
850 Fourth St. SE., Calgary, AB

While Calgary’s mountains often overshadow its arts scene, Studio Bell—the country’s foremost national music museum—gives nature a run for its money. Housed in a 160,000-square-foot structure of curved interlocking towers with a glazed terra­cotta façade, the multi-use hub features a performance hall, recording studios and thousands of music artifacts (including the piano Elton John used to compose his first five albums) alongside interactive exhibits.

Eat Here: River Café
25 Prince’s Island Park, Calgary, AB

When Sal Howell opened River Café—a ramshackle wood-clad building that looks more like a hobbit’s cottage than an award-­winning restaurant—in the heart of Prince’s Island Park 30 years ago, few would have believed it would still be standing today. But the celebrated café has always been ahead of its time, embracing sustainable cooking and championing local ingredients. The menu lists farm names beside the ingredients they supply, and each plate is thoughtfully composed and refined. Take the Northfork bison rib-eye, an elegant dish of silky pommes aligot, charred onion, lion’s mane mushroom, sweet black garlic and Saskatoon berry jus.

Day 6: Calgary to Vancouver

Approximately 974 kilometres (or 10.5 hours)

Explore Here: Banff Upper Hot Springs
1 Mountain Ave., Banff, AB

Long hours in a car may not do the body any favours, but science shows that a plunge in a natural hot spring can. A quick dip in the Banff Upper Hot Springs, a commercial pool within Banff National Park that’s framed by the jagged peaks of the Rundle and Cascade mountains, is just what the doctor ordered.

Explore Here: Capilano Suspension Bridge
3735 Capilano Rd. N., Vancouver, BC

Soaring 70 metres above the Capilano River and spanning 137 metres, this suspension bridge carries more than 3,000 brave visitors a day into the calming embrace of a centuries-old rainforest.

Shop Here: Granville Island
Vancouver, BC

Catch a ferry from Yaletown’s vibrant waterfront to the Granville Island shopping district, a quaint peninsula originally used by the Squamish and Musqueam peoples for fishing. Today, it’s a humming public market full of vendors, boutiques, performance venues, global restaurants and farm-fresh meat, fish and produce. Chau Cafe, Sunlight Farms and Oyama Sausage Co. are among the best bets.

Eat Here: Bao Bei
163 Keefer St., Vancouver, BC

In Chinese, bao bei means “treasure,” and stumbling upon this restaurant on the fringes of Vancouver’s China­town feels exactly like finding it. The Michelin-­recognized modern Chinese brasserie channels the cuisine’s subtle flavours into small plates bursting with familiar East Asian notes. The heavy hitter is the Kick Ass Fried Rice: an umami-forward twist on the classic, packed with miso ground pork, chili-preserved bamboo, jicama and squash. Pair it with the sweet-and-salty, triple-­fried, totally addictive crispy eggplant; garlicky sautéed pea tips; and pillowy mantou buns stuffed with braised pork, hoisin and pickled ginger, served with a side of miso-serrano aïoli.

Day 7: Vancouver to Tofino

Approximately 220 kilometres of driving plus a two-hour ferry

Shop Here: Old Country Market
2326 Alberni Hwy., Coombs, BC

In the 1970s, the community of Coombs was a magnet for hippies and countercultural activity. And while much of that crowd has since ditched their bell-bottoms for ath­leisure, the Old Country Market still radiates the wackiness of the era, selling everything from lamps to lemons. And if that isn’t enough to cement its status as the quirky heart of Coombs, then its grass-covered rooftop—which hosts a herd of grazing goats—ought to do it.

Explore Here: Cathedral Grove
MacMillan Park, Vancouver Island, BC

Wander through MacMillan Provincial Park on a clear day to witness the sunlight beaming through lush old-growth forest—a sight reminiscent of light shining through stained glass windows.

Stay Here: Pacific Sands Beach Resort
1421 Pacific Rim Hwy., Tofino, BC

Pacific Sands is the perfect embodiment of Tofino’s laid-back ethos. The seaside resort is situated by dense forest on Cox Bay Beach and features an impressive 75-metre waterfront, a surf shack, bike rentals and firepits—a stay here is kind of a no-brainer, dude.

Explore Here: Rainforest Trails
Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, BC

Dr. Seuss must have visited Pacific Rim’s rainforest for inspiration, because its fuzzy moss-and-lichen-­covered trees are as wild and whimsical as his imaginary Truffula trees. Walk along the wooden boardwalk through the impossibly lush ancient forest while keeping an eye out for banana slugs—prehistoric-looking creatures that can grow to more than 20 centimetres long—as well as cougars, wolves and deer.

Eat Here: Surfside Grill
1421 Pacific Rim Hwy., Tofino, BC

Avoid the lineups at the popular local joint Tacofino and head to this grub stand on Cox Bay Beach instead. Owned and operated by Jeff Mikus, a commercial fisher turned restaurateur, this as-fresh-as-it-gets beachside shop slings some of the best seafood in town. Halibut, salmon and cod come off the boat still twitching and are ground into fish burgers, breaded and fried for light and crispy fish and chips, or tossed into tacos. For breakfast, hearty brioche buns are stuffed with local smoked salmon, farm-fresh eggs and thick-cut bacon.

Eat Here: Picnic Charcuterie
700 Industrial Way, Tofino, BC

This meat and sandwich shop on an unassuming industrial strip in town is a hidden gem. Order the smoked brisket: tender, smoky meat piled onto bouncy focaccia with provolone, dill pickles, horseradish mayo, caramelized onion jam and arugula. And as the name implies, the curated selection of fine cheeses, homemade preserves and small-batch craft sodas is perfect for a beach spread.