A freewheeling version of the Neapolitan pie: brussels sprouts, house-made bomba relish, buffalo ricotta, fior di latte and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. $16. <strong>Pizzeria Libretto,</strong> <em>550 Danforth Ave., 416-466-0400.</em>
A white pie in which fior di latte subs in for sauce, topped with lemon-dressed arugula, bresaola and parmigiano. $19.75. <strong>Pizza e Pazzi,</strong> <em>1182 St. Clair Ave. W., 647-352-7882.</em>
A Polish twist for Roncesvalles crowds: fior di latte instead of tomato sauce, plus potatoes, pancetta and Asiago. $18. <strong>Pizzeria Defina,</strong> <em>321 Roncesvalles Ave., 416-534-4414.</em>
Fior di latte, spicy Italian sausage, Gorgonzola and red onion make for a manly variation. $18. <strong>Queen Margherita,</strong> <em>1402 Queen St. E., Unit 8, 416-466-6555.</em>
Straight out of Naples, the margherita contains only San Marzano sauce, milky fior di latte and basil. $13. <strong>Viva Napoli,</strong> <em>679 Mt. Pleasant Rd., 647-344-8482. </em>
I wouldn’t suggest going.