What’s on the menu at the Berczy Tavern, a piano bar and bistro from the team behind Amano Trattoria
Including whole grilled octopus, a stacked strawberry cake and a gochujang-spiked margarita
By Jessica Huras| Photography by Ryan Nangreaves
| July 31, 2024
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Ryan Nangreaves
Name: The Berczy Tavern
Contact: 69 Front St. E., theberczy.com, @theberczy Owners: Michael Angeloni, Adam Teolis and Yannick Bigourdan
Chef: Michael Angeloni
Accessibility: Fully accessible
During chef Michael Angeloni’s culinary-school days, 69 Front Street East was his regular haunt. “It was a Japanese restaurant back then,” he says. “I used to look around and think: I wish I could open a restaurant in a space like this.”
Co-owner Adam Teolis had also admired the lofty venue over the years, so when it came up for sale, the pair jumped on the opportunity. “The space has always meant something to us because of the memories we have in it,” says Teolis.
Chef and co-owner Michael Angeloni and co-owner Adam Teolis
Angeloni and Teolis set out to create a restaurant that would capture the spirit of its Old Town surroundings, dubbing it The Berczy after nearby landmark, Berczy Park. “We wanted the concept to be something that speaks to the heritage of the area,” says Teolis.
The loosely American bistro menu includes dishes that pay homage to the people and places that have shaped Angeloni’s culinary career. “I wanted to do a lot of dishes that were inspired by different times in my life,” he says. “We wanted to replicate that same dinner-party vibe you get at home, when everything is just right and you create that sense of warmth,” adds Teolis.
Angeloni has channelled the history of Old Town into a timeless menu that’s crowd-pleasing yet elevated. “I wanted to do riffs on things that wouldn’t be out of place in a classic bistro or tavern,” he says. “The food is south of France and north of Italy with a touch of Spain and a kick of Scarborough. It’s a little bit of everything.”
This tuna tostada is a nod to Angeloni’s stint as executive chef at Grand Electric. Marinated albacore, avocado mayo, celery and fennel slaw, cilantro, jalapeño, and crispy shallots are piled onto a crisp corn tortilla. $21
A tribute to Angeloni’s term at the late, great Black Hoof, this velvety chicken liver mousse features grilled maitake mushrooms, pickled pearl onions, sherry gastrique and house-made brioche. $14
The rare-beef salad (centre) highlights the Berczy’s in-house butchery program. Rib cap is lightly charred, thinly sliced, then layered with crispy shallots, chili sauce, pickled onions, hazelnuts, aïoli, fish sauce vinaigrette and fresh herbs. $23
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Here we have pan-roasted Pacific halibut swimming in vadouvan sauce with dashes of roasted shrimp oil. The carrots, which are glazed in carrot juice, come from White Lily Farms, an Uxbridge-based farm run by the owners of White Lily Diner. Toasted seeds and cilantro are sprinkled overtop. $39
Rack of lamb is served in quarter, half or whole portions. This gnaw-able quarter rack is cooked medium-rare and garnished with a pistachio crust. Artichoke purée, mint salsa verde, Sicilian olive sauce and roasted tomato jus provide the final touches. $42 for a quarter
Octopus also comes in quarter, half and whole portions. It’s plated over a white bean salad mixed with yet more diced octopus and finished with scallion ranch and pickled ramp salsa verde. $39 for a quarter
A purposeful departure from the trendy smash burger, the thick Berczy Burger patty is made from a blend of dry-aged chuck and brisket. It’s sandwiched into a Blackbird Bakery bun along with triple-cream brie, dijonnaise, caramelized onions and lettuce. Triple-cooked, skin-on fries and garlic aïoli come along for the ride. $29
The strawberry opera cake is a sweet stack of almond cake, strawberry buttercream and earl grey ganache. It’s crowned with a house-made strawberry macaron and strawberry powder. $16
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These pretty profiteroles are stuffed with white chocolate cream and praline paste. Dollops of dulce de leche crémeux and white chocolate cream are scattered throughout, and it’s all topped with candied hazelnuts and a drizzle of espresso sauce. $15
The Drinks
The cocktail menu is divided into updated classics and original creations, reflecting the Berczy’s ethos of reimagining the familiar. And the growing wine list offers something for various tastes and price points, from an easy-drinking Niagara gamay to a budget-busting Perrier-Jouët champagne. Beers are equally international, spanning local favourites like Longslice Brewery to European staples like Peroni.
The Berczy hops on the tiki trend with the Wildcat: hibiscus-infused bourbon with falernum syrup, demerara brown sugar syrup, pineapple, lemon and Angostura bitters. $18
This spirit-forward sazerac is made with Lot 40 rye, Spanish brandy, Peychaud’s bitters, demerara and Pernod. $16
A spin on a spicy margarita, the Hot Creations sees Altos blanco tequila and Del Maguey mezcal mixed with gooseberry cordial, gochujang and lime. $18
An off-menu essential, this tried-and-true espresso martini is garnished with a dusting of cinnamon
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The Space
With its exposed brick walls and soaring ceilings, the Berczy has seriously good bones. Teolis and the team added new light fixtures and emerald-green accents while recycling a few existing pieces, including these handsome hardwood tables
The showpiece table in the front window was a Facebook Marketplace find
The striking bar acts as a natural partition, separating the cocktail lounge area at the front of the restaurant from the more formal dining area at the back. “We created two distinct experiences,” says Teolis. “The dining room is a touch more refined when it comes to service style and ambience, while the bar is higher energy” Nightly live piano music is a highlight of the experience on the bar side. “Again, thinking back to this neighbourhood and what makes it special, it’s places like the Reservoir Lounge,” says Teolis. “We felt like another high-quality live music venue was needed in the area”
UK artist Jelly Funk created playful wall art pieces that nod to the venue’s music programming. “More than ever, people are looking for real experiences when they go out, and we hope that the music component makes it even more fun and inviting to come here,” says Teolis
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