Name: Alice
Contact: 488 College St., alicetoronto.com, @alicebevy Owners: Afif Khan, Matthew Haddon
Chef: Zicco
Accessible: Washrooms are not accessible
Little Italy was screaming for a culinary overhaul, and courtesy of new restaurants like Martine’s, Casa Paco, DaNico and Contrada, it’s finally happening. The latest addition to the neighbourhood’s all-stars roster is Alice, a deeply TikTok-able new spot for cocktails, street food and creatively upscaled diner offerings.
Matthew Haddon and Afif Khan, the co-owners of Alice, sipping drinks on their back patio
Afif Khan and Matthew Haddon, Alice’s co-owners, had previously opened Wonderland Cannabis Dispensary and were itching to expand their entertainment footprint. “Building a restaurant seemed like a natural fit,” says Khan. The two are unabashed about being new to the food-and-drink world, and they’re not trying to reinvent the wheel. Instead, they’re looking to make the ride as smooth as possible, with classic smash burgers, tacos, tomahawk steaks and beautifully crisp Korean cauliflower bites. The breadth of their selection is similar to what you might find at a chain restaurant, but elevated by a playful spirit and superior execution. It’s best eaten on the patio, a checker-floored backyard-like space inspired by Palm Springs.
The food
Alice has everything from street corn to salmon tartare to spaghetti. It’s a something-for-everyone approach that runs the risk of being nothing to anyone—but in this case, every dish is given star treatment, making for a perfectly realized vision. The deep-fried calamari is tender yet crisp; the street corn strikes a balance between sweet, spicy and salty; and the steaks are beautifully crusty on the outside and pink and juicy where it counts.
For the street corn ribs, deep-fried “quarters” of corn are sprinkled with zesty Tajín, thinly sliced chives and parmigiano-reggiano, which takes the place of the queso fresco found in traditional esquites. The ribs are drizzled with spicy aïoli and served with lime wedges. $12
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One of a handful of pasta dishes on the menu, the spicy penne alla vodka is cooked al dente in a silky tomato sauce that’s been slow-simmered with heavy cream, chilies, onions and garlic. $24
The tomahawk steak platter centres 56 ounces of seasoned and grilled Butcher Shoppe steak. It’s served with chimichurri sauce, hand-cut french fries, panko-crusted mozzarella sticks, street corn ribs and a creamy caesar salad with house-made croutons. $169
The umami-forward caesar salad (hello, anchovies!) is also available on its own. A bigger mountain of freshly grated parmigiano is a coveted add-on. $16 ($18 for extra cheese)
The BMAC Tacos are a clever upmarket take on the eponymous Big Mac. Steamed corn tortillas are filled with crispy ground beef patties, then covered with iceberg lettuce, dill pickle slices and diced white onion. Finally, the tacos are smothered in Alice’s secret sauce. $19
Thick-cut heirloom tomatoes provide the juicy backdrop for burrata cheese with fresh basil. Drizzles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar unify the dish. $23
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For the carpaccio, thin slices of beef are nestled in a pool of high-quality olive oil. Fresh arugula, a crackling of black pepper and huge chunks of parmigiano-reggiano add brightness, nuttiness and tons of umami. $25
The drinks
The cocktail card is an unapologetically vibrant, fruit-forward list of libations that aims for subtle surprises (a spicy margarita with scotch bonnet instead of jalapeño) and delightful twists (an espresso martini with salted caramel and punchy chili liqueur). A globally diverse, accessible wine program is on its way.
In a nod to the patio’s Palm Springs energy, the house cocktail, the Alice, is a blend of cactus pear syrup, Spirit of York pink gin, elderflower liqueur, lemon juice and Chartreuse. The drink is shaken, strained and poured over a large ice cube. $17
For the Garden Party, smoky mezcal and tequila are complimented by a tangy and sweet mélange of ginger syrup, lime, pineapple juice, muddled cucumber and fresh cilantro. The drink is finished with a splash of ginger beer and garnished with a slice of dehydrated lime. $18
The Bananas Foster Martini is a spin on a traditional sour. It’s made with house brown sugar, banana caramel, lime juice and dark rum. The drink is shaken with egg white, and there’s a sprinkling of nutmeg for extra warmth. $16
For the Scotch Bonnet Margarita, simple syrup is simmered with scotch bonnet peppers, then strained and cooled before joining the usual suspects—lime juice, triple sec and tequila. It’s rimmed with Tajín and Himalayan salt. $17
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Alice’s espresso martini uses ancho chili liqueur in addition to a mix of vodka, coffee liqueur and house-made salted dark chocolate sauce. It’s probably best not to eat the whole Thai chili garnish. $18
The space
“The supper club is back,” says Haddon, “so that’s what we’re aiming for here.” Alice has two floors, each with a distinct aesthetic. The moody top level has a cocktail bar feel, with wood floors, an ebony stone bar, mirror balls and neon accents. The exposed brick walls, marble tabletops and tufted banquette seating downstairs caters to more of a serious dining crowd. But the highlight is the patio, a whitewashed, cactus-filled terracotta space that is more Santorini than Little Italy.
Erin Hershberg is a freelance writer with nearly two decades of experience in the lifestyle sector. She currently lives in downtown Toronto with her husband and two children.