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Food & Drink

What’s on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore

By Rebecca Fleming| Photography by Gabby Frank
What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore

Name: Viaggio Contact: 1727 Dundas St. W., 416-519-8165, viaggiorestaurant.ca, @viaggiorestaurant
Neighbourhood: Little Portugal Previously: Branca Chef and owner: Jon Vettraino (The Commodore) Bar manager: Billy Killin

The food

A seasonally changing menu of classic Italian dishes—with a tweak here and there—that currently includes Tuscan bread soup, venison carpaccio, snow crab tagliatelle and Peking duck agrodolce. Vettraino isn’t limiting himself to one particular region of Italy, but he’s slightly more interested in what the north has to offer. “On the border of Austria and France, you start to see things like sauerkraut being used—I think it’s amazing that I can use ingredients like that and still call it Italian food.” And fans of Vettraino’s tiramisu pancakes—a holdover from The Commodore’s brunch—will be happy to see they’re on Viaggio’s dessert menu.

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
A salad of fennel and blood oranges, pickled shallots and piave vecchio cheese, in a red-wine vinaigrette, is served over a garlicky chick pea purée. $15.

 

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
Lightly cured venison carpaccio is dressed with crispy sunchokes, gorgonzola cream and chervil. $16.

 

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
Tagliatelle with butter-poached Nova Scotia snow crab, honey mushrooms and edamame. $30.

 

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
Pan-seared Ontario rainbow trout is served over a stew of smoked pancetta, cannellini beans, sauerkraut and potato. $29.

 

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
A 30-day aged Ontario Mennonite ribeye, with a mushroom and farro ragu and salsa verde. $42.

 

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What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
The famous tiramisu pancakes, topped with mascarpone cream and espresso syrup. $10.

 

The drinks

“We try to keep the drinks, simple, approachable and tasty,” says Killin of the house cocktails, which include an Aperol spritz, a twist on the negroni and some non-alcoholic concoctions. The wine list is Italian-heavy, of course, but also includes bottles from France, Austria, Spain and Canada. There’s Woodhouse lager on tap, too, and a couple of large-format cider options.

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
The 365 Spritz (because it’s good all year-round) is made with Aperol, Martini Bitter, Briotett Bergamote and Prosecco. $12.

 

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
How To Take A Compliment (Bombay Sapphire, Bitter Bianco, gentian, white vermouth) is Killin’s take on a white negroni. $15.

 

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
The zero-proof Hip To Be Square is made with Seedlip Garden, agave, lime, sparkling apple soda and rosemary. $11.

 

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What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
Killin, behind the bar.

 

The space

Not too much has changed since the space existed as Branca: it’s a little bit darker and cozier, the banquettes have been recovered and a couple of funky light fixtures have been added. There’s still a patio, but it won’t see any action until next summer.

What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore
What's on the menu at Viaggio, a new Italian restaurant from the team behind the Commodore

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