Weekly Lunch Pick: the gooey Dungeness crab mac-and-cheese at Reds

Top toque Michael Steh, bronze medallist at Toronto’s annual Gold Medal Plates competition, is the culinary mastermind behind this haute mac-and-cheese. The bowl of al dente ditalini is enriched with moist shreds of crab and scallions, spiked with just enough grainy mustard to give it a nutty crunch. It’s all baked under a blistered layer of fontina. The final product is like a crab cake, only made better thanks to the naughty combination of the nostalgia of kiddie comfort food and a three-ounce pour of muscat blanc ($7). Time: 56 minutes. Cost: $27, before tax and tip. Reds, 77 Adelaide St. W., 416-862-7337, redsbistro.com.