Weekly Lunch Pick: a sumptuous tart with an earthy soup
A favourite with financial district suits, Biff’s combines bistro decor—art nouveau posters, yellow walls, black and white photos, a large silver-framed mirror—with the Oliver and Bonacini group’s trademark polish. We go for the prix fixe: an onion and anchovy tartlet with a parsnip and pork soup. A flaky pastry crust cradles buttery sliced potato, caramelized onion and anchovies (don’t be afraid of them—they add a subtle hint of salty fish). This is topped with two generous, half-melted slices of grand crème delin cheese and sided by a simple salad of mixed greens and wild mushrooms. The soup is earthy and very smooth, dotted with little bits of guanciale for texture and richness.
The cost: $22 after tax and tip
The time: A reasonable 51 minutes from entrance to exit, including a little lingering
Biff’s, 4 Front St. E, 416-860-0086, oliverbonacini.com/Biffs-Bistro.aspx