At Omaw, Matt Blondin brings the American South to Ossington
Omaw ★★★ 88 Ossington Ave., 416-477-6000
Matt Blondin made his name cooking sublimely comforting bowls of shrimp and grits at the defunct Acadia, as well as during his short tenure at Momofuku Daishō. Now he’s taken over an elegant room on Ossington with a Carolinas-inspired menu of hot-from-the-oven cornbread, boudin balls, fried chicken, beef ribs rolled in puffed amaranth (pictured above) and, yes, his famous grits, this version studded with andouille sausage. The bar, run by talented fellow Momofuku expat Alex Harber, turns out smooth, head-whomping dark-liquor classics, plus back-in-vogue drinks like a puckery strawberry shrub precisely balanced with sweet vermouth and whiskey. If only every Toronto restaurant took the odd southern detour.
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