Bespoke Bottles: intriguing and less expensive Niagara wines that can only be found in Toronto restaurants
Here’s a secret: many of Niagara’s top producers have a range of what they call licensee wines, which are made specifically to sell to restaurants and not through the LCBO. They’re priced below their retail offerings, so the restaurants can add a markup and still pass savings on to diners. And while they may lack the structure and complexity of the top bottles from the same producers, they more than make up for it with food-friendliness and the zesty, lifted fruit flavour that’s typical of great Ontario wine. Here are some of my favourite licensee brands and where to find them in the city.
Light and Fruity MALIVOIRE 2013 SMALL LOT GAMAY Niagara Escarpment | 89 points
Malivoire is the top Ontario producer of gamay, the Beaujolais grape. It’s a light-bodied, juicy and fresh wine with cranberry and cherry fruit offset by typical gamay pepperiness and meatiness. It’s great with charcuterie and cheese. Try it at Drake One Fifty, 416 Snack Bar or County General (both locations).
Tart and Refreshing HIDDEN BENCH 2013 BISTRO PINOT NOIR Beamsville Bench | 88 points
Made entirely from organically grown estate fruit, Hidden Bench’s Bistro series is a winner. This is a pinot with clean raspberry-cherry fruit, herbs and gentle smokiness. Try it at Le Sélect Bistro, Le Germain Maple Leaf Square or Bymark.
Savoury and Spicy STRATUS 2012 TOLLGATE RED Niagara Peninsula | 90 points
This is a substantial, juicy and delicious blend of 10 different grape varieties, including cab franc, syrah and gamay. The lifted floral, raspberry and tobacco flavours remind me of a Tuscan red. Try it at L’Unità, Taverna Mercatto or Archive.
Fresh and Juicy TAWSE 2013 RIESLING Niagara Peninsula | 90 points
Sourced from Tawse’s new Limestone Ridge vineyard, this wine is as vibrant and polished as a riesling can get, with wonderful green apple, lime and white flower aromas. Try it at Enoteca Sociale, Volos or on tap at DaiLo.
Bold and Aromatic CAVE SPRING 2013 THE ADAM STEPS RIESLING Beamsville Bench | 89 points
This gulpable riesling, grown close to the Niagara Escarpment, has spicy pear fruit, great acid balance and a touch of minerality. Try it at Actinolite, Pangaea or Furlough.
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