Jamie Kennedy of Gilead Bistro preserves pungent wild leeks (which add depth of flavour to vinaigrettes) with a slice of beet for added colour. 4 Gilead Pl., 647-288-0680.
In the Italian kitchen at Buca, golden figs are preserved in a sugar–mustard seed brine, extending their tragically fleeting season. 604 King St. W., 416-865-1600.
Pickled with coriander seed and star anise, Niagara Street Café’s honey mushrooms are chewy yet slippery, a nice fit with Nick Liu’s rabbit rillettes. 169 Niagara St., 416-703-4222.
Cowbell’s artichoke hearts are steeped in vidal vinegar and topped with lemon olive oil. They make a nutty garnish for seared pickerel. 1564 Queen St. W., 416-849-1095.
(Image: Gilead Bistro’s wild leeks, by John Cullen)