Crossing the border for buffalo wings? Not anymore thanks to this new bar in Etobicoke
The Elmwood is a homage to the Queen City’s watering holes
When Toronto restaurant-industry vets Allen Meredith and Mallory Bey moved from Little Portugal to Etobicoke with their toddler, they quickly realized that they needed more than IKEA.
“We were like, Oh my god, there’s nothing to do,” says Bey. “There’s fine dining and a lot of takeout, but we didn’t have a watering hole—there was nowhere to go for a snack and a pint that was kid-friendly but also had a good scene for a date. We both love a neighbourhood haunt, so we decided to make our own.”
The couple’s brand-new baby, the Elmwood, opens today on the Queensway and is an ode to Buffalo— specifically to the city’s iconic saucy, un-breaded chicken wings. It’s an obsession the couple comes by honestly. Bey, who works front-of-house, grew up in a hockey family that couldn’t afford exorbitantly priced Leafs tickets, so they became accidental Sabres fans instead.
When Meredith and Bey were working maniacal restaurant hours at hotspots like Enoteca Sociale, Quetzal, Bellwoods, Buca and, most recently, True History Brewing, they would have only one day off a week, so their options for romantic getaways were limited.
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Buffalo, with its low-key cool scene around Allentown and Elmwood Village and the warm hospitality of its affordable, unpretentious restaurants, quickly became a favourite destination. Now they’re bringing those experiences home. “Allen loves wings, and that’s the thing he’s really perfected,” says Bey. “Now we can have an American-style bar without having to go to America.”
For now, the menu is tight and snappy, featuring four different kinds of wings (classic buffalo, south buffalo, honey garlic and charred scallion barbecue), Montreal-style hot dogs (all-dressed toastés) and fries. They went American with the serving sizes—it’s 1.5 pounds of extra-large wings or bust, baby—and the pints are 20 ounces (around four ounces more than a typical Toronto pour these days). Still in the works are some lighter sides and a mini kids’ menu.
As for the drinks, there are four rotating taps pouring beer from local craft breweries like Bellwoods, True History, Great Lakes and Common Good, plus a fridge full of classic macro-brew bottles (Molson Canadian, Blue Light, Miller High Life). There’s ice-cold pinot grigio on tap and (non-alcoholic) juice boxes too. The decor is a mix of stylish mid-century modern furnishings, vintage sports memorabilia, kitsch and as many buffalos as they could find. And, of course, there are three TVs—and the game will always be on.
The Elmwood, 753 The Queensway, @theelmwoodbar
Leah Rumack has worked as the deputy editor of Today’s Parent and the features director of Fashion and has contributed as a writer to a long list of Canadian brands including Toronto Life, the Globe and Mail, the Toronto Star, Chatelaine, Elle Canada, Zoomer, the National Post, EnRoute and Re:porter. Her work focuses on travel, food, pop culture, beauty and fashion.
