Summerlicious: dignified dining program or “cash-grabby food factory”?
The idea of dining out on the cheap is nice, but what is Summerlicious like from the restaurant’s perspective? Sure, bargain meals help bring in business, but there are not-so-great tradeoffs, like stress, boredom and uncertain financial rewards (it costs over $1,150 just to participate). So, is it worth it? We got in touch with some chefs and restaurateurs to find out.
The Loyalist
“The Fifth has enjoyed a long relationship with Summerlicious. It has been very beneficial to us, because it exposes the restaurant to a new group of dinner guests. With the backing of the city and the media exposure, we get a chance to reach out to guests who may under normal circumstances not join us.”
—Brad Livergant, chef at The Fifth
The Pragmatists
“At Nota Bene, we never felt that we had to create such a program. But then we had a conversation about Summerlicious and thought that maybe we were missing out on opportunities. It’s more about promotion for us, and in that regard I think it has worked very well. We’ve introduced a lot of people to the restaurant. The profit margins aren’t as great as they could be, but we consider it an opportunity for people to discover Nota Bene.”
—Yannick Bigourgan, co-owner at Nota Bene
“The reason we decided to participate is because the summer months are usually slower, so there is a financial benefit. Also, not everyone can afford to come to Splendido, so it’s nice to give people a chance for a few weeks of the year.”
—Victor Barry, chef and owner at Splendido
The Conscientious Objectors
“I don’t hate the idea; I just hate that our restaurant culture is in a position to have to do it. I remember working at a restaurant that stripped its regular menu items of everything delicious and unique only to serve cost-effective dishes devoid of anything interesting. I would much rather be slower and serve dishes to their full potential than sacrifice the integrity of my customers’ dining experience. Ever bought toilet paper from Dollarama? The worst. I’d much rather spend a couple extra bucks on that Cashmere two-ply stuff. And the same goes for my dining.”
—Grant van Gameren, chef and owner at Bar Isabel
“Winter/Summerlicious are problematic because diners are given a facsimile of the desired dining experience. Diners are being cheated—they get a sub-par experience for a negligible discount. Restaurants are being cheated by being in a position of having to simply make it through the ordeal that they collectively pay the city almost a quarter-million dollars for. I was hired to work at Avalon (one of Toronto Life’s best restaurants of the year at the time) and during food festivals like this saw a brilliant restaurant transform into a fast-food operation.”
—Nathan Isberg, owner and chef at The Atlantic
“I think it’s stupid. I appreciate that it was invented to give restaurants much-needed support during imagined and/or real slow times, but it’s become a cash-grabby, prix-fixe food factory. If you care about dining well, you are probably not going to enjoy the rushed, harried service of waiters just trying to make money on volume because, let’s face it, if you’re already committing to a bargain lunch/dinner, you probably tip 15 per cent (before tax, dad-style). If you use it as an opportunity to dine out in financially out-of-reach restaurants, how can I hate on that? Makes me look like a bougie asshole, so enjoy, but manage your expectations. From the perspectives of employees, it’s the worst. Especially for the cooks who have to cook the same three things on repeat for two weeks, in huge volume, for the same pay rate. Brutal. I will never, ever participate. P.S. it’s like $1,200 to play. Thanks for caring, Summerlicious.”
—Jen Agg, owner of The Black Hoof
Images: Yannick Bigourgan, Nota Bene; Victor Barry, Brendan Meadows; Grant van Gameren, Dave Gillespie; Nathan Isberg, Jon Sufrin; Jen Agg, Raina and Wilson
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The idea of dining out on the cheap is nice, but what is Summerlicious like from the restaurant's perspective? Sure, bargain meals help bring in business, but there are not-so-great tradeoffs, like stress, boredom and uncertain financial rewards (it costs over $1,150 just to participate). So, is it worth it? We got in touch with some chefs and restaurateurs to find out.
The Loyalist
“The Fifth has enjoyed a long relationship with Summerlicious. It has been very beneficial to us, because it exposes the restaurant to a new group of dinner guests. With the backing of the city and the media exposure, we get a chance to reach out to guests who may under normal circumstances not join us.”
—Brad Livergant, chef at The Fifth
The Pragmatists
“At Nota Bene, we never felt that we had to create such a program. But then we had a conversation about Summerlicious and thought that maybe we were missing out on opportunities. It’s more about promotion for us, and in that regard I think it has worked very well. We’ve introduced a lot of people to the restaurant. The profit margins aren’t as great as they could be, but we consider it an opportunity for people to discover Nota Bene.”
—Yannick Bigourgan, co-owner at Nota Bene
“The reason we decided to participate is because the summer months are usually slower, so there is a financial benefit. Also, not everyone can afford to come to Splendido, so it’s nice to give people a chance for a few weeks of the year.”
—Victor Barry, chef and owner at Splendido
The Conscientious Objectors
“I don’t hate the idea; I just hate that our restaurant culture is in a position to have to do it. I remember working at a restaurant that stripped its regular menu items of everything delicious and unique only to serve cost-effective dishes devoid of anything interesting. I would much rather be slower and serve dishes to their full potential than sacrifice the integrity of my customers’ dining experience. Ever bought toilet paper from Dollarama? The worst. I’d much rather spend a couple extra bucks on that Cashmere two-ply stuff. And the same goes for my dining.”
—Grant van Gameren, chef and owner at Bar Isabel
“Winter/Summerlicious are problematic because diners are given a facsimile of the desired dining experience. Diners are being cheated—they get a sub-par experience for a negligible discount. Restaurants are being cheated by being in a position of having to simply make it through the ordeal that they collectively pay the city almost a quarter-million dollars for. I was hired to work at Avalon (one of Toronto Life’s best restaurants of the year at the time) and during food festivals like this saw a brilliant restaurant transform into a fast-food operation.”
—Nathan Isberg, owner and chef at The Atlantic
“I think it’s stupid. I appreciate that it was invented to give restaurants much-needed support during imagined and/or real slow times, but it’s become a cash-grabby, prix-fixe food factory. If you care about dining well, you are probably not going to enjoy the rushed, harried service of waiters just trying to make money on volume because, let’s face it, if you’re already committing to a bargain lunch/dinner, you probably tip 15 per cent (before tax, dad-style). If you use it as an opportunity to dine out in financially out-of-reach restaurants, how can I hate on that? Makes me look like a bougie asshole, so enjoy, but manage your expectations. From the perspectives of employees, it’s the worst. Especially for the cooks who have to cook the same three things on repeat for two weeks, in huge volume, for the same pay rate. Brutal. I will never, ever participate. P.S. it’s like $1,200 to play. Thanks for caring, Summerlicious.”
—Jen Agg, owner of The Black Hoof
Images: Yannick Bigourgan, Nota Bene; Victor Barry, Brendan Meadows; Grant van Gameren, Dave Gillespie; Nathan Isberg, Jon Sufrin; Jen Agg, Raina and Wilson){kind=link}
What’s difficult about summer/winterlicious, from the patron’s side, is that 1) AMEX holders get front of the line, so usually all the really desired restaurants and bookings are taken well before the general public gets to it and 2) often the menu items for these events aren’t a sample of the regular menu at all. After two years of trying to make use of this event, I stopped because I was tired of AMEXlicious – not meant for Toronto, but AMEX holders only. I agree with the chefs that say, if you want to experience their restaurants at their best, go on a regular night using the regular menu. I found that its a much better experience. And if its pricey, save for it and go on a special occasion. For me, these two events have never led to positive experiences.
“tipping 15 % (before-tax, dad style)” also makes you sound like a bougie asshole.
I’ve had some fantastic Summerlicious experiences. Two that I remember were Jump for dinner and Bannock for lunch. During each visit, food was good, portions were fair, servers were attentive, and I didn’t feel rushed at all. So, although Jen Agg’s comments have merit, the rushed, cattle experience isn’t such at all establishments. Restaurants and servers who want me to come back, would treat me as if they want me to return. This is a restaurant’s time to shine and if they can’t be bothered, then neither can I?
I did however have a horrible experience at Wildfire at Yonge and Lawrence one year. I had made a regular dinner reservation for a special occasion well before the Summerlicious dates have been announced. My reservation happened to fall during the Summerlicious window (but again, I had not intended to take part in the Summerlicious menu and it’s not the reason I was going). Anyway, I guess the restaurant assumed that everyone there on that night wanted Summerlicious and so my dining partner and I were seated at a small table, near the back of the restaurant, along the path to the kitchen with all the other Summerlicious diners. We were immediately handed the Summerlicious menu. When I asked for the regular menu, the server seemed surprised. After spending well over $300 that night, I was so irritated by my experience that I haven’t gone back since.
Being an occasional diner at Wildfire beforehand, and then being pegged as a Summerlicious diner really showed me how some restaurants segment their guests.
Also, I used to work at a restaurant which took part in the Summerlicious program. The owners were so cheap. The restaurant has since closed (thankfully) but their Summerlicious menu listed dishes not on the regular menu, and those which were also on the regular menu were made as much smaller portions for Summerlicious diners.
In general, I enjoy Summerlicious but i no longer make a point of trying new restaurants. I’m more likely to go back to those where I’ve already been and liked.
I was just about to say the same thing. God, Jen Agg is an asshole.
I think she is a little upset that her restaurant is rated 2 stars (of 5) by the general population. Been there once, service was awful, food was even worse…… summerlicous would not drag me back.
Crazy you had that experience… I love wildfire, both on normal nights and summer/winterlicous nights. I find it is one of the only place that serve normal portions during these discount periods!
Thank you!
The fact that it costs that much for a restaurant to participate is ridiculous. And customers can be totally brutal (having spent years in the service industry myself) but I honestly love these type of festivals because I’m a minimum-wage earner, and a working artist, and this is the only way I can get to try out some of these excellent places.
This is an amazing city…. with exaggerated income disparity. How am I supposed to know which one to “save up for” if I’ve never been? Let me taste. Feed me and I’ll become enamoured…and then I will come back on a special night with my poor artsy friends. :)
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Oliver & Bonacini restaurants (Jump, Bannock and many more) participate to give back to their city. They create menus and experiences for the guests so they will come back even when ‘licious isn’t happening, they clearly do it right!
why is tipping on tax considered “dad style”?
http://www.newcityfood.com
she was infering that “cheapskates” tip on the amount before tax.
Amex card holders no longer have advance bookings
I am an Amex card holder and not gonna lie I loved it
Wow Jen Agg, i don’t know you, but you’ve just counted on one less diner at your pretentious restaurant, and I’ll be sure to tell all my friends, so thanks for caring right back atcha. Summerlicious it not about money (it may be to you, though). It’s about a food culture in Toronto, an ‘open doors’, so to speak, to the amazing restaurant scene we have in Toronto. It’s an opportunity for those who cannot afford $100 per person to have a taste of some of the finer restaurants in Toronto. I’ve had good experiences twice at North 44, and at Lee. Get off your high horse, lady.
I applaud Jen Agg for confirming my belief that any place run by an odious little gobshyte as she appears to be is not one that I will frequent.
Nice to know that gentrifiers like Jen Agg and Grant van Gameren, who are actively pushing poor people out of Parkdale, are at least honest about how much contempt they harbour toward the poor. “Wouldn’t want any 15% tippers or Dollarama shoppers getting into our restaurants!!”
I find most of the restaurants and servers do a great job at promoting their venues with value and warmth. My problem is with the type of diners this event attracts as in people who are rude, loud and see themselves as more important than the rest. They totally spoil the vibe with their negativity and whining. It is supposed to be fun for all and it does encourage me to try new spots that I might not otherwise.
So the “little people” that were at Wildfire for Summerlicious deserved lesser service & crappy tables?
Interac has been the main sponsor for 2 years now (last year was the first).
Jen Agg, owner of The Black Hoof has agg ravated me and others. Hey Girl you only cook food, not negotiating peace treaties between Hamas and Israel.
Image yourself as a humble servant of the foodies that come to your place and maybe your perspective on your bloated opinion of your place at the restaurant and in the world will come into focus.
Never ate there/never will.
Harvey’s here I come.
I am a supporter of the ‘licious’ program and anything that gets the city out and about and connecting with one another. Sure, I’ve heard some of the complaints about the program but I applaud those restaurants that take part to give back to the city and promote our food culture in Toronto. I’ve had almost all positive experiences and generally find diners quite grateful for the opportunity. I’m also encouraged by the creative menu offerings despite the prix fixe menus – well done to those restaurants that make this a fun event for themselves and diners.
So sorry that Jen Agg feels that I should tip her on tax, which has nothing to do with the 2-star out of 5 (according to a TO Life review) service she and her bougie little diner offer. From the sound of her attitude, I don’t think it’s somewhere I’d want to go anyway, Summerlicious or not. Having said that, I have to agree with her that a fee of $1200 to participate sounds pretty greedy on whoeever’s part.
“tipping 15 % (before-tax, dad style)” …Ungrateful much? Never going to the Black Hoof again. It’s not that great, anyway.
I do the marketing for a restaurant that is participating for the first time and the resos come through our head office. I will say $1,200 is actuall decent. To list in an online directory like dine.TO is $500-700/month. The reach of Summerlicious goes far beyond ‘foodies’ in Toronto. many of the resos are retirees living in Barrie, Newmarket etc.. People who would have never heard of us and likely would have never come through the door. And now they have a place they know when they come back to the city. Also.. can you believe that the whole program is managed/run (exceptionally well for a city thing) by ONE person?? Madness!!
whoops guess The Black Hoof has it’s lovely clientele… definitely won’t spend my money there.