Serious Crush: 10 spots that deliver exciting wines and never-snooty service

The definition of a Toronto wine bar has morphed dramatically over the past few years. Classic wine-only bars are increasingly scarce, while restaurants with excellent by-the-glass lists and accompanying small plates are proliferating madly. My favourites all offer the wine bar experience, which to me means you can walk in without a reservation, sit at the bar or a nearby table and explore interesting wine guided by smart staff, then move on to the next place in the neighbourhood—or ­hunker down if you really like what you find.