Introducing: S. Lefkowitz, Toronto’s first all-hummus restaurant from the owner of Ezra’s Pound
Name: S. Lefkowitz
Neighbourhood: Trinity-Bellwoods
Contact Info: 913 Dundas St W., 647-346-8448
Owner: Ezra Braves, who closed the Dundas West location of his coffee shop Ezra’s Pound to open the hummuseria
The Food: At Toronto’s first hummuseria, the chickpea dip isn’t just an accoutrement—it’s the star of the meal. Owner Ezra Braves blends re-hydrated organic chickpeas into a protein-packed dip, which he serves warm with pita bread. Plates of hummus come drizzled with olive oil and topped with things like braised beef, warm olives, boiled eggs or tahini, plus a dusting of harissa powder.
The Drinks: Ezra’s Pound pour-overs are still available. Braves also serves loose black tea blended with liquorice root and mint leaves.
The Place: The café hasn’t changed drastically from its corner-coffee-shop days. A few new touches, like big jars of lemons and shelves stacked with dried spices, add some Mediterranean ambiance. Black-and-white photos of Braves’s grandparents (including two of maternal grandpa Sam Lefkowitz) decorate the exposed brick walls.
The Numbers: • 200 pounds of dried chickpeas per week • 22 seats (with a 20-seat patio opening this spring) • $18 for a take-away trio of Mediterranean dips: hummus, labneh and tahini • 8 years since Braves had his hummus epiphany while traveling through Israel • 6 ingredients in each batch of hummus • 2 reclaimed church pews
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Caroline Aksich, a National Magazine Award recipient, is an ex-Montrealer who writes about Toronto’s ever-evolving food scene, real estate and culture for Toronto Life, Fodor’s, Designlines, Canadian Business, Glory Media and Post City. Her work ranges from features on octopus-hunting in the Adriatic to celebrity profiles.
